The uncrowded Caribbean island mass tourism forgot
St Croix has a long history of attracting - Matt Champlin
The tiny Caribbean island of St Croix first entered my consciousness when I read that the Bidens had just spent three successive Christmases there. If it was good enough for Joe and Jill, I reasoned, it was certainly worth a visit (the 16.5 per cent rise in tourist numbers last year suggests I was not alone) – and so, this summer, off I went.
The appeal was immediately clear. This far-from-flashy spot in the US Virgin Islands – devoid of mass tourism and hotel chains (and largely untouched by cruise ships) – is barely half the size of the Isle of Wight, and yet it brims with history and character, punching far above its diminutive weight.
Christopher Columbus landed there in 1493, for a start – met by the arrows of indigenous tribes, who knew the island as Ay Ay – rechristening it Santa Cruz, and naming the Virgin Islands after the 11,000 virgin handmaidens of St Ursula.
Since then, St Croix has been colonised by the Dutch, British, French, Danish, Spanish and even the Knights of Malta – operating, like many of its Caribbean neighbours, as a hub for sugar cultivation and the slave trade – before being purchased by the US (along with the rest of the US Virgin Islands) in 1917.
Today, this kaleidoscopic colonial influence is borne out in a rich and complex culture, as well as the names of its twin towns, Frederiksted (also known as Freedom City) to the west and Christiansted to the east, a charming spot with a thriving food scene
Distinctive Danish architecture dominates downtown Christiansted (it was once home to a young Alexander Hamilton, who worked as a bookkeeper for an import company; the delightful Hamilton’s restaurant is named after him).
Danish architecture dominates downtown Christiansted - alamy
Of course, the main draws here are the white sand and clear waters – but, tempting though it may be to spend your time supine on the island’s beautiful beaches (the Painkiller – the rum-heavy nutmeg cocktail of choice in these parts – in hand), there are plenty of reasons to explore St Croix in its entirety.
From visiting beer-drinking pigs in the rainforest, to “chaney” hunting, and snorkelling in an underwater marine garden now protected thanks to John F Kennedy, here’s how to plan a holiday in St Croix.
Recommended
The Caribbean's 29 islands, ranked from worst to best
How to get there
There are no direct flights to St Croix from the UK, but various airlines fly from Miami, Atlanta, Fort Lauderdale and Charlotte in the US (and, from December, from Chicago too). A connecting return flight from the UK will set you back roughly £800.
What to do
St Croix is a natural wonderland, with rugged green mountains jutting from the north shore, giving way to rolling hills and plantation flatlands to the south.
Explore the landscape by kayaking through bioluminescent plankton and neon comb jellyfish at Salt River Bay (with BushTribe Eco Adventures), horse-ride on Cowboy Beach (with Cruzan Cowgirls, whose funds benefit rescued horses), or book a boat tour of Buck Island Reef National Monument (with Caribbean Sea Adventures), a coral marine garden established by John F Kennedy, who visited St Croix often (and – allegedly – brought Marilyn Monroe here for a clandestine rendezvous).
Sprat Hall Beach on the eastern part of the island - Alamy Stock Photo
If outdoor pursuits aren’t for you, head instead to Christiansted to experience Art Thursdays (held on the third Thursday of each month between November and May), when a stroll through the quaint shopping streets is accompanied by steel drums and a party atmosphere.
Pick up authentic “chaney” jewellery souvenirs from Crucian Gold and ib designs, crafted by local artisan Whealan Massicott using colonial pottery shards washed up on the beach (”chaney” is a portmanteau of “china” and “money”).
It’s worth paying a visit to the Cruzan Rum Distillery for tasting tours, and to Mutiny Island Vodka for copper-pot distilled breadfruit- and rainwater-vodka (and pineapple cake with smoked hot pepper vodka). If you’d rather someone else did the drinking, head into the rainforest to visit Mt Pellier Domino Club (aka the “Jungle bar”), home to the famous beer-drinking pigs (don’t worry, it’s non-alcoholic).
The Cruzan Rum Distillery offers excellent tasting tours
Where to stay
The island’s most famous hotel, The Buccaneer (from £229), has an 18-hole golf course, eight tennis courts, three beaches and two pools. For something more low key, try Sand Castle on the Beach in Frederiksted (from £192), a serene, palm-lined adults only resort, or the cool, casual Landing Beach Bar on Cane Bay Beach, which has 11 cottages and a scuba diving centre.
The grounds of The Buccaneer Hotel - Maddi Howell
If you’d prefer to opt for self-catering, properties are available through Premier Properties USVI and its luxury portfolio. Aura Villas USVI (for example, Caribbean Camelot (sleeps six), which costs from $500/£370 per night; Cruzan Dreams (sleeps six), next to Salt River Marina, which has beach access and costs from $600/£445; and Yacht Haven (sleeps six), which is close to Teague Bay and the St Croix Yacht Club, and costs from $425/£315. They can also arrange private chefs and bespoke experiences.
What to eat
This year, St Croix was crowned the Caribbean Culinary Destination of the Year – and for good reason. Christiansted hums with great options, but there are several standouts: Shupe’s on the Boardwalk, for example, which serves made-to-order burgers; Caroline’s, a delightful brunch spot with harbourside views; and Virgin Islands Coffee Roasters. Savant and Too Chez are both good upmarket options, while chocolatier Erika Dupree Cline makes Crucian bean-to-bar chocolate at Bleu Chocolàt Workshop, and Johnny cakes (fried dough), a moreish local staple, are available from La Reine Chicken Shack.
Maddi’s lobster dish at Savant restaurant - Maddi Howell
To get a feel for the Crucian culinary landscape as a whole, hop between local restaurants in Christiansted with Virgin Islands Food Tours, tasting the likes of Caribbean lemongrass bush tea, guava tarts and Mutiny Island vodka cocktails.
When to go
Peak tourist season runs from mid-November to May. If you’d like to plan a trip to coincide with local festivities, aim for between Dec 26 and Jan 6, when the Crucian Christmas Festival comes to Frederiksted, or mid-March, for the Caribbean’s largest St Patrick’s Day celebration, which takes place in Christiansted. Avoid June to November, which is hurricane season.
How to get around
There is very little in the way of public transport, so it’s sensible to hire a car. Centerline, Hertz or Budget are all reliable options.
b'
'Sign up to the Front Page newsletter for free: Your essential guide to the day's agenda from The Telegraph - direct to your inbox seven days a week.
