I travelled 1,000km by train to find the secret to Finland’s happiness

“I think it’s sauna and equality,” says Alex Lembke, when I ask his thoughts on happiness. The first part of this answer I could perhaps have predicted, given he’s the master of Finland’s oldest, still-functioning public sauna – but there’s more to it than loyalty to a vocation. “I think the Finnish people see very little division between themselves,” he continues. “They see themselves as more equal; in public saunas we see judges, MPs and surgeons sitting next to labourers, shopkeepers and the unemployed – often naked. It is very equalising when you remove your daily costume.”

I’ve come to Finland not just to sweat it out, but to understand how it’s been named the happiest country in the world for eight years running, according to the World Happiness Report.

I’m making use of an Interrail Finland Pass to travel more than 1,000km by train. The country has more than 3,000km of track extending beyond the Arctic Circle into Lapland, west into Sweden and east to the Russian border. I set off from Helsinki on a journey aboard a clean and punctual two-hour InterCity service west to Turku, the former capital.

As I leave the current capital, the urban landscape shifts to ocean-like wide open fields, punctuated with islands of verdant green forest and verges lined with brilliant-purple lupins.

Despite being the oldest city in Finland (founded in 1229), Turku feels modern, and a little Parisian. I sip coffee in cafés lining the streets and the central square, and stroll tree-shaded paths next to the wonderfully named Aura river, marvelling at the thought of Turku’s archipelago having 80,000 islands, the largest in the world.

High speed train at Helsinki Central railway station (Photo: NGCHIYUI/Getty/iStock Editorial)

My guide Anne-Marie leads me to a preserved area of the old city, Luostarinmäki museum quarter. The open air museum offers an immersive look into Finland’s past and a glimpse at past lives through restored timber houses.

Over coffee, she gives me a crash course in the history of the country, which gained independence in 1917, having previously been part of both the Swedish and Russian empires. Since then, a proud cultural identity seems quickly to have formed.

It’s 166km and two hours north-east to my next destination, Tampere. Its industrial history has given rise to the nickname of “the Manchester of the North” (“Manse” in Finnish). It has a lively, artsy feel. In the Finlayson district, former factories have been repurposed as galleries, museums, restaurants and shops.

Sauna Restaurant Kuuma in Tampere (Photo: Visit Tampere)

Tampere, which has 70 public saunas, also styles itself as the sauna capital of the world. These include Rajaportti, where Alex is responsible for getting the wood fire going, ensuring the rocks reach the perfect temperature before his regulars arrive.

He accompanies me to Sauna Restaurant Kuuma, a sleek, modern spot with its own wood-fired sauna, as well as a smoke sauna, a floating plunge deck on Lake Pyhäjärvi, and a café-restaurant.

Alex is comfortable in the heat, but I’m beginning to melt. We head out to the deck and I lower myself into the cool water, which in winter often gets as cold as 2°C or below, but which today is 15°C. It’s still enough to make me gasp, though, and after a minute I climb out, my body tingling. I feel energised, and we repeat this cycle another four times.

I savour the views as the train glides through lakeland to Jyväskylä, on the shores of Päijänne, the second largest lake in Finland. Once in the university city, I head to the top of the Vesilinna Observation Tower with guide Katri, who points out the endless lakes below. Despite being in the centre of Finland, it feels as though we’re on an island.

Rajaportti Sauna in Tampere (Photo: Visit Tampere)

Katri runs nature tours with her company, HauskaaOnnellista, and takes me out on the Haukanniemi nature trail – an accessible 2.4km route – in her adventure wagon, a converted ambulance with its own small kitchen and every tool imaginable.

Delving deep into the birch forest, Katri talks of how nature is so close to everyone in Finland. This country is one and a half times the size of the UK, but with nine per cent of the population.

We close our eyes and listen to the birdsong and gentle lapping of the lake. We move to a firepit on the shoreline, where Katri prepares wild mushrooms on rye bread and vegetables flavoured with summer herbs. There are also two mums here with toddlers, who tell me they come here once or twice a week. “It’s so calm,” says one of the women as she toasts sausages on the fire.

Kayaking down the Pielisjoki river, Matti – an ex-chef and now-owner of outdoor adventure business Kalastusretket – talks to me about the joy of being so close to nature, of fishing and nights spent in the wild.

The scenery of Vallisaari (Photo: Matti Pyykk)

Many Finns have a holiday cabin, often with no electricity or running water, in a remote area where they go to decompress. Embedded in Finnish law is the concept of jokaisenoikeudet (“everyman’s rights”), giving people the right to roam, forage, fish and enjoy nature – with respect, of course.

Back in Helsinki, I visit Vallisaari. An old military island in the Gulf of Finland, it now houses contemporary art. As I wander tree-lined pathways, taking in the installations, I wonder if the sense of freedom, nature and trust inspires such a proliferation of creativity in Finland.

I hop over to the smaller Lonna island and reflect on my 1,000km rail trip around Finland. Three things have cropped up again and again in conversation: trust, equality and the value of being close to nature.

As the sun sets, shimmering on the water, I watch two bathers toe their way in, laughing as the chill invigorates them. I smile as I think I may have found the Finn in myself.

Getting there and around

The writer was a guest of Finnair, which flies from London, Manchester and Edinburgh to Helsinki from £168 return. finnair.com.

He used HolidayExtras.com to arrange a night’s stay at the Renaissance Hotel, Heathrow T3 doubles with 11 days’ parking from £292, including access to No1 Lounge.

He used an Interrail Finland Pass (allowing six days of travel within one month) to book train travel in Finland, which costs €162. One day per month is €103, interrail.eu

Where to stay

Doubles at Scandic Hamburger Bors in Turku start at €110, at Sokos Ilves in Tampere from €115, at Hotel Verso in Jyvaskyla from €110, at Lietsu Boutique Aparthotel in Joensuu from €108 and at Scandic Grand Central in Helsinki from €104.

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