How the Rolex Datejust Became the Crown's Most Recognized Watch

Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 4467 (~1945-1959)

By the close of the Second World War, Rolex had been producing its famous waterproof Oyster case for close to 20 years, and its Perpetual automatic movements for nearly 15 years. The potent combination of these two important horological developments led to the Oyster Perpetual, a series of highly water resistant, automatically-wound timepieces that would be adopted into all manner of famous tool watch collections in the intervening decades. 

In addition to marking the close of the bloodiest conflict in human history, 1945 also signified 40 years since the founding of Hans Wilsdorf’s famous watch company. To celebrate four decades of innovation and achievement, the brand released a special solid-gold Oyster Perpetual reference, the 36 mm 4467, with a date complication and a multi-link bracelet that it dubbed “Jubilee.” While it may be taken for granted now, this reference represented the world’s first automatic, waterproof chronometer wristwatch with a date function. Soon—and following some important changes—it would come to be known as the Datejust.

While for many, the word “Rolex” immediately calls to mind the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Cosmograph Daytona models, it’s in fact the Datejust that has been the best-selling Rolex collection for much of its history and it is, therefore, the most widely recognized model from the brand. Less expensive in certain configurations than its Professional-collection cousins, the Datejust offers elegant looks, a handy date complication, myriad dial and metal configurations, and the choice of Jubilee, Oyster, or President bracelets. 

Considered by many to be a “dress watch” despite its heavy metal bracelet and thicker case, it’s able to carefully bridge the gap between everyday and more formal timepieces. Available since nearly the beginning of its long history in two-tone steel and gold, it’s also perhaps the watch most associated with that particular aesthetic. Bringing together numerous Rolex innovations, the Datejust was, in the eyes of company founder Hans Wilsdorf, a type of ultimate Rolex. Indeed, numerous world leaders and celebrities of the mid-20th century were gifted or wore the model: Winston Churchill, Dwight D. Eisenhower, and Martin Luther King were all seen with one on their wrists. (Churchill was in fact presented with Rolex’s 100,000th Certified Chronometer—which happened to be a Datejust.) 

Delving into every possible configuration of the Datejust would be a nigh-impossible undertaking—delineating numerous important references and their key attributes, however, is eminently doable, and offers an instructive illustration as to why this classic watch model has so admirably stood the test of time. While other models and model families have come and gone, the Datejust remains steady, predating every other Rolex collection with the exception of the Oyster Perpetual itself, of which it is a variation. In a world in which products are introduced and retired at alarming speed, the Datejust—which turns 80 in 2025—has exhibited remarkable longevity. There’s little doubt that it will continue to do so.

NOTE: Rolex production dates are approximate due to overlapping production of various reference numbers. Rolex production during the mid-20th century was an iterative process that often saw countless minute changes to dials, cases, and parts within a single reference, thus making it exceptionally difficult to catalog each and every change. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 5030/5031 (~1948-1950)

Produced for a short time around 1949/1950, the references 5030 (smooth bezel) and 5031 (engine-turned bezel) introduced the option of a two-tone steel and gold Rolesor case to the Datejust collection—an option that remains an important aspect of the model today. Available also in rose or yellow gold, it still featured the protruding caseback of the ref. 4467 due to the presence of the A295 automatic movement. And like the ref. 4467, it could be had in a cream or black dial. Some late-production references appear with the word “Datejust” on the dial, though scholarship seems to agree that it was the later 6105 that first featured this distinction. 

Reference: 5030/5141
Diameter: 35.5 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. A295 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $15,000-$50,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 6104/6105 (~1950-1953)

The references 6104 (smooth bezel) and 6105 (engine-turned bezel), available in yellow and pink gold—and, in some extremely rare circumstances, in left-hand crown configurations—came with a variety of dials. In addition to white or black, diamond-studded dials were also available. This generation of Datejust saw Rolex transition from a “Swiss Made” to “Swiss” signature; it is also the first reference (according to many sources) to feature the word “Datejust” on the dial. Dial text configurations vary from example to example: Some feature “Officially Certified Chronometer” or “Chronometer Officially Certified” across two lines, while others use three. 

Reference: 6104/6105
Diameter: 36 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. A296/Rolex Cal. 745 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $14,000-$19,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 6309/6609 “Thunderbird” (~1954-1959)

This interesting reference combines a fairly standard 1950s-type Datejust with a rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time. (The Turn-O-Graph, introduced in 1953 and quickly followed by the Submariner, was the first Rolex tool watch to feature a rotating bezel.) The “Thunderbird” name derived from Rolex’s association with the U.S. Air Force Demonstration Squadron, which was founded in 1953. Available in precious metals in black or white dials, it also came in steel (ref. 6609) with a white gold bezel—a configuration that would become a Datejust signature with the introduction of the ref. 1601 in 1958. Note also the ornate nature of the bezel itself, which features elegant millwork between the 10-minute indices. 

Reference: 6309/6609
Diameter: 36 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 743/Rolex Cal. 1065 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $10,000-$40,0000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 16XX Series (~1958-1977)

Perhaps the most iconic of the vintage Datejust references debuted in the late 1950s with the 16XX series, which included smooth-bezel (1600), fluted bezel (1601), engine-turned bezel (1603), and other variants. The ref. 1601, in stainless steel with a white gold fluted bezel, is particularly beloved: This unique combination allows for a (relatively) affordable watch despite the presence of precious metal. The previous Datejust generation (6XXX) had jettisoned the “Bubbleback” caseback in favor of a flat caseback due to the presence of a new movement—this was carried over to the 16XX series. The famed “cyclops” window, introduced in 1955, likewise appeared on these watches (and all later Datejust generations). Baton hands also appeared in the 16XX series. 

Reference: 1600/1601/1603/1605/1607
Diameter: 36 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 1570/1575 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $4,000-$6,000

Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust (1977-2004)

A singular aberration in the otherwise automatic Datejust line, the Oysterquartz Datejust was powered by Rolex’s own quartz movement. Unlike its brethren, it came with a distinctive integrated bracelet and a more angular case architecture rooted in its 1970s birth decade. (This highly accurate movement tech also provided both quickset date adjustment and hacking seconds.) In production for over 25 years, the Oysterquartz Datejust (and Day-Date) models were revolutionary, boasting both high-tech engines and design while still maintaining classic 36 mm proportions. In 2004, Rolex discontinued the Oysterquartz Datejust, reverting to all mechanical production.

Reference: 17000/17013/17014
Diameter: 36 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 5035 Oysterquartz 
Price on Secondary Market: $4,000-$6,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 16XXX (~1977-1988)

The 16XXX-series Datejust lost the previous generation’s iconic “pie pan” stepped dial but added some welcome improvements—namely, the new Cal. 3035 movement allowed for quickset date adjustment and featured a faster beat rate of 4 Hz (28,800 vph). Available with fluted, engine-turned, or bark bezels, these watches came with steel, yellow gold, or two tone Rolesor cases and featured a wide variety of dials. (“Tapestry” and “linen” patterns are among the more interesting versions.) This series was also the last to feature acrylic crystals, after which Rolex switched to modern sapphire crystals. 16XXX-series watches shipped on either Jubilee or three-link Oyster bracelets.

Reference: 16000/16013/16014/16014/16018/16030/16078
Diameter: 36 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 1570/1575 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $4,000-$6,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 162XX (1988-2004)

The 162XX-series 5-digit Datejust, upgraded with sapphire crystal and powered by the Cal. 3135 movement, still features many characteristics that vintage lovers adore: drilled lugs, stamped end links, and—at least earlier in the production run—tritium lume. Available in smooth, fluted, or engine-turned bezels, it was the late Datejust series to feature the latter bezel type, which was then phased out by Rolex. Once again, dial and metal configurations were legion: Everything from diamond to applied Arabic indices made an appearance, and colors included all manner of subdued or ostentatious hues, depending on the reference. (Those looking for a classic configuration with modern convenience are well served by the ref. 16234 in steel with a white gold bezel and a silver dial.)

Reference: 16000/16013/16014/16014/16018/16030/16078
Diameter: 36 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 1570/1575 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $4,000-$6,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II ref. 1163XX (2009-2016)

The Datejust II saw Rolex increase the size of its signature date-equipped watch with an upsized 41 mm case and the Cal. 3136 movement. Available only on an Oyster bracelet, it came in steel with a white gold bezel or yellow or rose gold with matching bezels. Due to its larger proportions, it featured a proportionally upsized dial with thicker indices, a thicker bezel, and an overall beefier look. The Chronometer-certified Cal. 3136, meanwhile, offered modern features such as a Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, and hacking, while a wide variety of interesting dials were available. Still, Rolex would discontinue this model after just seven years, replacing it in 2016 with the Datejust 41—a size that still exists in the modern Datejust collection.

Reference: 1163XX 
Diameter: 41 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 3136 automatic 
Price on Secondary Market: $8,000-$14,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 1263XX (2016-Present)

Rolex discontinued the Datejust II and replaced it with the similar Datejust 41 in 2016. Though references within both sub-families are similar, there are noticeable differences: The case, lugs, bezel, and even dial indices are all slightly thinner on the Datejust 41, making for a slightly more refined appearance. And while the Datejust II was only available on the Oyster bracelet, the Datejust 41 also comes on Jubilee. Furthermore, in addition to steel, two-tone White Rolesor, and two-tone Yellow Rolesor, the Datejust 41 also comes in Everose Rolesor. Both smooth and fluted bezels are available in each Datejust 41 configuration, while a wide variety of dials is available in each metal. The current-gen Rolex movement powering the lineup is the Cal. 3235.

Reference: 1263XX 
Diameter: 41 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 3235 automatic 
Price: $8,500+

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 126234-0051

The modern incarnation of the classic 36 mm Datejust doesn’t look all too different from the 16XX series born in the late 1960s. A ref. 126234-0051, for example, features an Oystersteel case with a Jubilee bracelet, a white gold fluted bezel, a screw-down crown and caseback, and an automatic, chronometer-signed Rolex movement. This particular execution features a gorgeous mint green dial in a sunray finish with applied Chromalight indices and hands. Available in several other dial colors—and on an Oyster bracelet, should you prefer—it’s the same classic Datejust that the world fell in love with in the mid-20th century, save for its upgrades with more modern features and technical upgrades.

Reference: 126234-0051
Diameter: 36 mm
Movement: Rolex Cal. 3235 automatic 
Price: $9,550