Every question to ask before you book an Amazon river cruise

Explore the Amazon’s 4,000-mile journey, which crosses into nine different nations

You can only really do the Amazon from the water. The world’s greatest river rises in Peru’s Andean uplands and ends at the Atlantic Ocean off Brazil. This 4,000-mile journey is fed by 17 major rivers that split into countless other rivers, rivulets, streams and wetlands. Nine nations lie inside the Amazon basin.

I’ve been fortunate enough to experience many branches of this magnificent “tree of rivers”, from the old markets and churches of sultry Belém to the golden beaches of Alter do Chão and the opulent opera house in Manaus. As a nature-lover and twitcher, I have marvelled at macaws, kingfishers, hummingbirds, spider monkeys and giant otters.

During Amazon trips, I’ve sailed on a variety of vessels, from luxurious riverboats on northern Peru’s main tributaries to ordinary passenger vessels that chug along the Brazilian mainstream. I’ve hopped into dinghies, kayaked in a flooded forest and swam in open water with pink dolphins.

Vessels sailing on the major Amazon tributaries tend to carry fewer than 40 passengers, and cruises come in many shapes and sizes, like the Amazon itself. This guide will help you find and plan your ideal adventure.

In this guide:

• Before you book
• Life on board
• Before you go

Before you book

Where can I go?

You have several choices when it comes to an Amazon cruise. In Brazil, you can sail from Belém, at the mouth of the Amazon, as far as Manaus or even Iquitos in Peru. Manaus is also the usual embarkation point for short sailings up the Rio Negro, a major tributary known for its vast fluvial archipelago (anavilhanas in Portuguese) and rich wildlife.

In Peru, out of Iquitos and Nauta, a handful of cruises visit the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, a large triangle of biodiversity-rich rainforest formed by two major tributaries, the Marañón and the Ucayali.

Over in Ecuador, a single line – step forward Anakonda Amazon Cruises – operates cruises on a luxurious small river vessel along the Napo River.

For real adventurers, one company operates rustic cruises in Bolivia, in the south of the Amazon basin.

Elsewhere, trips into the Amazon are by motorboat and kayak, with accommodation on the riverbank. Ferry-type boats aimed at locals operate all over, but note that these are low-budget, with hammocks on open-air decks and a few sub-one-star cabins.

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What types of cruises are available?

The two main types of cruises are short riverboat cruises (approximately three to seven days) around the headwaters, especially in Peru, and transits along the Brazilian mainstream. The latter is sometimes added as a side-trip on a cruise down the Atlantic coast.

How long will I need?

To transit the Amazon from Belém to Iquitos, you’re looking at 18-21 days. For a cruise around the Peruvian headwaters on one of the luxury river ships operated by Aqua Expeditions and Delfin Amazon Cruises, you’ll need anywhere from three to seven nights. A Rio Negro wildlife-spotting cruise in Brazil takes four or six nights.

When to go

From January to June, cruise passengers get to see the Amazon’s flooded forest. This is a great time to get in a canoe and paddle close to river dolphins and aquatic birds. Between July and December, when the water is lower, itineraries tend to focus on the abundant wildlife along the riverbanks.

River dolphins are best seen during the wet season when the river is higher - Cavan Images/Getty Images

How can I cruise there?

Most people book the three to seven-day Peruvian Amazon, Ecuador and Rio Negro riverboat cruises as part of a longer holiday package, typically through UK-based Latin America specialist tour firms (see LATA for details). Ocean-going cruises with an Amazon detour and longer mainstream cruises can be booked directly with cruise lines. Large cruise ships occasionally sail up the Amazon to Manaus.

For a full Amazon immersion, Hapag-Lloyd has an 18-day upstream itinerary from Belém on Brazil’s Atlantic coast to Iquitos deep inside northern Peru. This odyssey of over 2,000 miles offers a plethora of wildlife opportunities.

Rio Negro is one of the main tributaries that feeds into the Amazon River - Anna Carolina Negri/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Also in Brazil, the traditional and more affordable 18-passenger Tucano cruises on the Rio Negro, which branches off the Amazon close to Manaus. This is one of the best places for Amazonian wildlife.

In Peru, there are two high-end boutique operators, Aqua Expeditions and Delfin Amazon Cruises. Aqua Expeditions sails the 40-passenger Aqua Nera. Longer, seven-night itineraries cruise the mighty Marañón and the Ucayali tributaries as well as several black-water lakes.

Delfin’s cruises visit the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve (a protected flooded forest). With an emphasis on authenticity, Delfin I, II and III have been built in Iquitos using sustainably sourced timber and furnished with indigenous Shipibo textiles. Delfin’s oldest vessel, Delfin I, has just four suites, while Delfin III caters to families and solo travellers as well as couples.

From the port of Coca, a half-hour flight from Quito, Ecuadorian cruise company Anakonda Amazon offers four, five and eight-day cruises on its small and luxurious river ships, Anakonda and Manatee.

Aqua Nera, a 40-passenger ship from Aqua Expeditions, sails predominantly on the Peru stretch of the Amazon - Stevie Mann

What will I see?

If you sail up the Amazon mainstream to Manaus, the river is often so wide that it feels more like being at sea – though the water is a different hue and there’s little in the way of a swell. The highlights are the alluring cities – Belém, Santarém, Alter do Chão and Manaus – and the “Meeting of the Rivers” where the coffee-coloured Amazon river merges with the black waters of the Rio Negro.

On Zodiac excursions from these cruises, and when cruising on riverboats, you get a more intimate experience of the riverbank – with its varied human life, nature, birds and wildlife. The tributary of the “Black River”, which branches off the Amazon close to Manaus, is one of the best places for Amazonian wildlife.

Sail up two mighty tributaries – the Marañón and Ucayali – on board a small, luxuriously appointed riverboat to see magnificent flora and fauna, including anacondas and black caiman.

Will I have a view?

Yes, the small expedition cruise ships and bespoke luxury riverboats used for Amazon cruises all have outside windows.

Amazon cruise ships tend to carry fewer than 40 passengers, such as the luxury ship Delfin I, which has just four suites

What’s included in the price?

Food, non-alcoholic drinks and on-board lectures are invariably included. Entrance fees to national parks and reserves, guided excursions, jungle walks and Zodiac rides are included on Amazon cruises as they are integral to the experience. Some excursions on larger vessels may also be included.

Who will my fellow passengers be?

The Amazon has wide appeal, so expect an international mix of passengers and a range of ages – including families with children. Speaking of the latter, aged seven and upwards is recommended for most Amazon cruises.

How mobile do I need to be?

Excursions in skiffs, piranha fishing, swimming, kayaking, canoeing, jungle walks and visits to rural villages require a degree of mobility.

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Life on board

What does the cruising day look like?

After breakfast, most cruises offer morning excursions ranging from wildlife watching to a rescue centre visit, and meeting locals in their riverbank villages.

Lunch is on board, usually followed by a relaxing afternoon or maybe a cooking class or lecture. Evening activities take place around dusk, when birds return to their roosts. Amazon cruises tend to feature at least one night excursion by skiff and a forest walk. De-briefings (where guides recap on the day’s activity and wildlife spots) often take place before dinner, over a drink.

Some cruises visit the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve - Patricia Marinelli/Getty Images

Do I have to leave the ship every day?

On short cruises into the river tributaries, there are landings and excursions every day. These are not obligatory, of course, but staying on board is missing out.

On longer voyages, via the coast, there will be days at sea. Passengers entertain themselves, visit the spa and library (if there is one) and are free to join any on-board activities.

Is dining a formal affair, and can I eat when I want?

The Amazon is hot and humid. Dining and drinking are casual, as is the dress code.

What facilities are on board?

Hanseatic Spirit, which Hapag-Lloyd uses on its Brazilian mainstream cruises, has 120 cabins and is kitted out for expedition cruises with Zodiac rib-boats, on-board lectures, an extensive Amazon-themed library and binoculars for loan – plus three restaurants, a spa with saunas and personal trainers on board.

On riverboats, cabins are luxurious with panoramic windows for wildlife viewing. Motor-powered skiffs and kayaks are available for exploring narrow, forest-fringed rivers, with expert guides leading small groups. On-board activities range from lectures to cooking demonstrations and cocktail masterclasses.

Food tends to be excellent. Aqua Expeditions, which operates the 16-suite Aria Amazon and 20-suite Aqua Nera, even has a menu created by acclaimed Peruvian chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino.

Hapag-Lloyd’s ships come with Zodiacs for passenger excursions - PAGE CHICHESTER

Is there any entertainment on board?

The Amazon is not about glitzy shows or water parks. Talks, cooking classes and perhaps quizzes are typical on-board entertainment.

Can I cruise solo?

You can, but there will usually be a significant supplement for solo travellers as Amazon vessels are fairly small and fitted with two-passenger suites or rooms.

Do I need to fly to the ship?

Yes. Apart from a handful of sailings out of Miami, most Amazon cruises begin and end in a South American port.

Can I keep active?

Jungle walks, swimming and kayaking are usually offered. Larger sea-going ships have gyms and spas. Smaller vessels may offer yoga.

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Before you go

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About our expert

Chris Moss

Chris has been writing about South and Central America for The Telegraph for two decades. A former resident of Buenos Aires, he led tours to Argentina and Chile. Chris has visited every country in Latin America and taken cruises through the Chilean fjords, to the Falklands and into the Peruvian Amazon.

Chris Moss, Telegraph Travel’s South America expert

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