Every question to ask before you book a Galápagos cruise

Many landing sites across the Galápagos Islands can only be accessed by cruise passengers

Every journey is a quest of sorts, though few travellers have an inkling of what it is they’re questing for – unless they set off with a purpose, and head for a truly special corner of the planet. The Galápagos Islands are just that sort of place.

As I discovered on my first cruise around the volcanic archipelago a decade ago, this enthralling sanctuary of biodiversity is among the most life-affirming places on Earth.

My first close encounter was a scene that had all the hallmarks of a Steven Spielberg film. Untold marine iguanas, perfectly camouflaged against the black lava on the deserted island of Fernandina, lay dozing in the sun. Like mini-me descendants of prehistoric monsters, these motionless stoics sneezed tiny explosions of salt crystals from their nostrils to prevent dehydration.

In 1835, Charles Darwin sailed into this archipelago on board HMS Beagle and stayed just five weeks. Fascinated by the variations in tortoises and finches, he based his 1859 book On the Origin of Species on his study of natural selection that he witnessed. This famous work shattered the traditional teachings of creationism. Now you can retrace his steps in lavish comfort.

In this guide:

• Before you book
• Life on board
• Before you go

Before you book

What makes the Galápagos Islands so special?

Visitors to this living museum, straddling the Equator, 600 miles off Ecuador’s coast, need to understand this is a destination where giant tortoises, not sandy beaches (although the islands have plenty), are the poster boys. The archipelago is a UNESCO World Heritage Site deemed to be of global ecological importance. Each of the 13 major islands (only four of which are inhabited) has its own unique habitats.

The terrain ranges from barren volcanic landscapes teeming with land iguanas and lava lizards, to turquoise lagoons where herons and flamingoes hang loose. Many landing sites in the Galápagos Islands can only be accessed by cruise passengers, so the best way to explore is on an all-embracing package created by an expert.

How do I get there?

Reaching the Galápagos involves two plane changes – one to reach mainland Ecuador and the second to fly between Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands. There are no direct flights between the UK and Ecuador. KLM has a wealth of services from regional airports around Britain that connect at Amsterdam for the onward flight to the Ecuadorian capital, Quito. Iberia and LATAM fly via Madrid, and Lufthansa and LATAM via Frankfurt. US gateways to Quito include Miami, Atlanta and Houston. Total flying time to Ecuador is at least 15 hours. A visa for Ecuador isn’t required for stays of less than 90 days.

Galápagos cruise packages usually include a pre-cruise stay in Quito – a UNESCO World Heritage City renowned for its Spanish-colonial architecture. Getting to the archipelago involves a three-and-a-half-hour flight, mostly with Avianca or LATAM, to Seymour Airport at Baltra on Santa Cruz Island. Baltra airport has convenient embarkation access to pangas (zodiacs), which take passengers to ships anchored in the bay. Silversea passengers travel on charter flights to San Cristóbal Airport.

Each passenger can check in one 23kg piece of baggage – carry-ons cannot exceed 10kg. On arrival, all luggage is scanned to prevent the import of biological material that could endanger the islands’ delicate ecosystems.

The Galapágos Islands are of ‘global ecological importance’ because of their diversity in terrain and wildlife - Tim Bieber/Celebrity Owned

When should I go?

There’s no bad time of year to visit the Galápagos Islands, but it’s important to understand that wildlife viewing is seasonal. I’ll never forget a visit in April, watching sea lion pups playing on the sandy beach of Española Island. When I returned to the same island a few years later in November, majestic Waved Albatross adults were tending their chicks.

Each unique island presents an opportunity to see natural variances. On Genovesa, there’s an abundance of magnificent frigate-birds, Galápagos mockingbirds, Red-footed Boobies and Red-billed Tropic-birds. Plucky little Galápagos penguins cool off around Pinnacle Rock on Bartolomé Island, while Santiago Island is the habitat of Galápagos fur seals and herons. During the dry season on the main island of Santa Cruz, giant tortoises return to the highlands after their migration.

In January, the endemic marine iguanas display their most colourful red and green skin, while in May, it’s possible to observe land iguanas hatching. Meanwhile, sightings of migrating humpback whales and dolphins are possible in June and July. This is also the start of the breeding season for flightless cormorants and Blue-footed Boobies, who perform fascinating mating rituals.

Sightings of migrating humpback whales are possible in the summer months

During the warm and wet season, between December and May, air temperatures range from 21C to 26C. With water temperatures averaging 25C, this is an ideal time to observe sea turtles. In the slightly cooler, windier, dry season, from June to November, when temperatures drop by around 5C, nutrient-rich currents attract whale sharks and hammerhead sharks. The Galápagos Islands are at their coolest in August and September.

How much does a Galapágos cruise cost?

Cruising in the footsteps of Darwin is not cheap, but fares are often lower than those of some polar expeditions. Vessels are also limited to just 100 passengers, so they’re a world away from vast fun ships brimming with water-slides, bingo and revue shows.

Packages without international travel, but include domestic flights, range from around £5,000 to £9,000 per person. Flights from the UK cost around £1,500 and can be booked by your chosen cruise line. Some companies offer attractive single supplements and promotional offers in the low season.

Who will my fellow passengers be?

Galápagos cruises attract a diverse range of passengers who are curious, well-travelled and eco-conscious. In my experience, passengers are very sociable and enjoy chatting about daily encounters during dinner, which is a casual affair.

Ships are, generally speaking, family-friendly, with some offering dedicated pursuits for young adventurers. National Geographic’s Global Explorers-in-Training programme includes snorkelling and tandem kayaking, while HX Expedition’s Santa Cruz II offers dedicated family cabins, tailored excursions, and activities for junior Darwins.

Thinking of taking the whole family? Some cruise lines offer programmes tailored for younger travellers - Sven-Olof Lindblad

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Life on board

What will I see?

Twice-daily excursions are rewarded with close-up scenes of abundant animals and birds unafraid of humans. Expedition guides ensure visitors keep to designated trails, maintain a discreet distance from wildlife, and leave only footprints. There are options for hikes, photo safaris, kayaking, paddle-boarding and snorkelling. In the evening, on board, lectures cover topics including natural history and conservation.

Tourists are permitted to explore visitor sites only with Galápagos National Park-certified naturalists who accompany guests and helm the pangas on excursions. Depending on permissions, visits are made to the islands of South Plaza, North Seymour, Española, Fernandina, Isabela, Punta Suarez, Rábida, Floreana, Puerto Ayora, Genovesa, Punta Espinoza, Santiago, and Bartolomé.

There are twice-daily excursions from cruise ships with travellers being led by experts - Ralph Lee Hopkins

Landings at specific sites are carefully managed, and individual islands can be off-limits to protect their delicate ecosystems. On typical seven-night sailings, cruise lines organise itineraries in an east/west island split. Some routes sail to the remote northeastern islands such as Genovesa and Española, while others cruise to the western reaches, including Isabela and Fernandina. Both circuits visit several other captivating islands along the way.

What’s included in my cruise fare?

The Galápagos National Park entrance fee (£148) and tourist card fee (£15) are part of the package, as are transfers between the airport and ship. Accommodation and meals, featuring international and local dishes, are included, and vegetarians are well catered for. An open bar is usually part of the deal. There are twice-daily excursions aboard pangas, plus daily briefings. Walking sticks, snorkelling equipment, paddle-boards, kayaks, scuba-diving gear and wetsuits are provided on most ships with laundry facilities, Wi-Fi, and tips usually included.

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What facilities are on board?

The most important asset to successful cruising in this ecological Garden of Eden is the Ecuadorian naturalist guides who accompany you on excursions, in addition to hosting tables at dinner. Cruise lines hire the best, many with degrees in ecology, marine biology and ornithology. They speak excellent English, and are enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge.

HX Expedition’s Santa Cruz II has a science centre, Silversea’s Silver Origin has an educational facility called Basecamp, while National Geographic-Lindblad Endeavour II has a glass-bottom boat and underwater cameras. Most ships have plunge pools, hot tubs, small gyms and spas. Entertainment is provided by the naturalists.

You can traverse one of the great ecological wonders of the world in astonishing comfort - Michel Verdure/Celebrity Owned

What’s new?

Luxury line Silversea has started offering a new, streamlined way to reach San Cristóbal Island from Quito. A dedicated charter flight now operates non-stop, exclusively for guests sailing on board Silver Origin.

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Before you go

What should I pack?

Pack light, fast-drying clothing with a couple of long-sleeved shirts for sun protection and layers for temperature changes. Also essential are a hat, sunglasses, and sturdy walking shoes. Aqua shoes make getting on and off pangas during wet and dry landings a lot easier. Sandals are handy – flip-flops are useless. Factor 50, repellent and a waterproof daypack are vital, as are portable binoculars. Lastly, don’t forget to throw your swimwear in your suitcase if you’re planning on taking advantage of the hot tub and/or snorkelling.

What should I research?

Pre-cruise research pays dividends. There’s a wealth of websites that can help you plan your Galápagos adventure, but I recommend galapagosinsiders.com; galapagosislands.com; gogalapagos.com; and galapagos.org.

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About our expert

Gary Buchanan

Scottish-born Gary Buchanan has worked as a specialist cruise writer for 22 years, contributing to many leading British publications. He is the author of five books about cruising and spends over seven months every year at sea.

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