Pro Tips for Basement Finishing
Boost the Airflow
The coldest room in the basement is usually the room farthest from the furnace. Boost the airflow on long duct runs with an in-line duct fan. These fans are easy to install but require a power supply.
Some are hardwired and some plug into an outlet, but either way you'll need to leave access to the junction box, which can be accomplished with a panel or a cover plate. In-line fans can run 24/7, be installed with an optional thermostat, or be wired to turn on when the furnace fan turns on.
Manage Moisture Issues
Before beginning any basement finishing project, control moisture and water. Most problems stem from poor water management outside the home. Gutters that empty near the foundation or ground that slopes toward it can lead to leaks or foundation issues over time.
"If you have finished spaces in the basement, it's critically important to keep them dry. If you don't have good drainage around the home, there's a good chance you'll get water coming in, which can cause mold and a host of other problems," says Reuben Saltzman of StructureTech.
Run Pipes Behind Walls
It's a lot easier to run plumbing behind a new wall before it's nailed into place. That way you won't have to drill holes through studs. Assemble the pipes and tape them to the foam insulation temporarily.
Tip the new wall up and hang the pipes on studs before nailing the wall permanently into place. That will make it easier to attach the hangers. The downside of this method is that you lose a little floor space.
Don't Insulate Over a Heated Floor
In-floor heating systems are great for heating a basement, but installing thick, heavy carpet and heat-resistant padding over them is a sure way to reduce their efficiency. High R-values are good for walls and attics, but lower is better when you're covering in-floor heating.
Most carpeting is made of similar materials, so the type isn't as important as the thickness—thinner is better. Carpet padding, however, is made of different materials with different insulating properties. Waffle rubber padding is a good choice, with an R-value of 1 for a 3/8-in. pad. Urethane is a poor choice, with an R-value of 1.62 for a 3/8-in. thick pad.
Raise a Beam
If it's in the budget, removing any dangerously low beams in a basement is a doable project. You'll need an engineer to tell you whether you can reuse the existing beam or need a bigger one. A lumberyard will be able to refer you to an engineer.
Build temporary walls to support the joists before you remove the existing beam. Cut out a space in the joists for the new beam. Slide in the new beam and support each end. Finish by attaching the floor joists to the beam with hangers.
Use Screws on Hard Lumber
Old lumber gets hard and brittle, so nailing into it can be extremely frustrating, even for the pros. A pneumatic nail gun will penetrate old wood, but it also tends to split it.
If you need to connect new walls to old existing walls or attach soffits to old floor joists, make sure you have some self-tapping construction screws on hand before you start. Screws work better on old wood and create a super-strong connection. However, you might still have to pre-drill screw holes when you're working with really brittle wood- or even grab the nearest tube of chapstick.
Quiet Noisy Pipes
If you've never spent much time in your unfinished basement (why would you?), you may have noisy drainpipes but not even know it. Before you bury them behind drywall, have a helper run water, drain bathtubs, empty a washing machine, and flush toilets while you hang out and listen for loud swooshing noises.
If you do have a noisy pipe, wrap it with carpet padding. Use quality duct tape or zip ties to hold it in place. If the home center near you doesn't sell carpet padding by the foot, stop by your local carpet store, which may be able to give you some free scraps.
