Top 40+ years later, beloved NJ Chinese restaurant is still well worth a visit

The good
The bad
The vibe
The bottom line

The good, The bad, The vibe, The bottom line

Corrina's Critically Acclaimed 24 ounce Strip Steak at Peking Pavillion in Manalapan Township

Originally opened in 1975 in Richmond, Virginia before relocating to Manalapan in 1983, owners Mike and Corinna Kuo passed “The Pavilion” on to their nephew, Dufan Li in 2020. While management may have changed, Mike and Corinna still maintain a regular presence at the restaurant, along with manager Steven Peng, who has been there since the beginning, reminding guests that the legacy they built is still very much alive.

Grand Marnier prawns at Peking Pavillion in Manalapan Township

“This restaurant feels like home,” hostess Mindy Kramer said. “Corinna carried me around this restaurant when I was a baby. When I was going through a divorce, I needed a shoulder, and she suggested I come here a few days a week to take my mind off of things. I worked a few shifts and never looked back. This restaurant has become my second home. When you come here, you really are family.”

Chicken Soong in lettuce wraps at Peking Pavillion in Manalapan Township

I visited during lunch on President’s Day, and the place was bumping. Nearly every table was occupied across the two dining rooms, the bar crowd spilling into one of them.

“The bar here is a huge draw, Kramer said. “You’ll see the same faces three to four times per week. They come for our bartenders, Jason and Jackson. They make some of the best mai tais and lychee martinis around.”

Aptly timed with the Lunar New Year, a visit to this Monmouth County staple was in order.

The good

The best thing we ate was one of the first dishes to hit the table. Five, plump pork soup dumplings ($15) nested within a steamer basket were purses of juicy, meaty perfection. There is an art to eating soup dumplings to avoid the mistake of a mouthful of boiling hot broth. These were the perfect temperature — and with the accompanying dumpling sauce, succulent and satisfying.

The second-best dish was the Peking duck ($56), a dramatic presentation of a whole slow roasted, Long Island duck, quartered and sliced, and served with oversized crepes, scallions, cucumber and homemade plum sauce. The meat was moist and skin crispy, but the highlight was the sauce. Without it, the dish would have lacked seasoning and overall flavor. With it, every bite sang harmoniously. I would have appreciated more of the accoutrement but all in all, it was a very solid version of the dish.

We ended the meal with the only non-American dessert offered, a set of three mochi ($11). We chose green tea and mango, both of which did their job for a sweet, chewy and creamy bite to end the meal.

The bad

I was told by many that I had to order the filet mignon egg roll ($7), so the expectation going in was lofty. While I appreciated the creative, elevated spin on a Chinese-American staple, this one fell short. The egg roll itself sat in a pool of grease, and I found myself searching for the beefy flavor that was diluted by the overwhelming amount of shredded cabbage filling. Even with the duck sauce and spicy mustard that accompanied it, the egg roll paled in comparison to some of the more traditional ones I’ve had — even just from no-frills takeout spots.

Filet mignon egg roll at Peking Pavillion in Manalapan Township

As a long-time P.F. Chang’s lettuce wrap enthusiast, I had high hopes for the Chicken Soong in lettuce wraps ($18). Pre-portioned into four cups of crisp iceberg lettuce, the chicken, mushroom and bell pepper mixture had a flavor I couldn’t quite put my finger on. It lacked brightness and salt, which made this dish forgettable and somewhat disappointing.

Another dish I was instructed to order was the Grand Marnier prawns ($33), an impressive tower of jumbo prawns, set atop a bed of sliced oranges. This dish has so much potential, but didn’t meet it. The prawns were probably the largest and highest-quality shrimp I’ve ever had at a Chinese restaurant, and they were battered and fried to crispy perfection. The big issue here was the sauce. Trix cereal-sweet with no obvious Grand Marnier flavor, the balance of flavor here was sadly off. The overall sweetness overpowered the exquisite shrimp and one ended up being more than enough.

Mochi at Peking Pavillion in Manalapan Township

We rounded out the meal with one of the least traditional more intriguing entrees, Corrina’s Critically Acclaimed 24 ounce New York strip steak ($60). Aged in-house, this piece of meat was massive. Juicy, tender and cooked to a perfect medium, the steak itself was good and an even better value. When we ordered, the server mentioned a side of fried rice with the steak, but we did not receive one. The stir-fried vegetable and a spring roll were fine, and the dish itself wasn’t a let down, but did not exceed expectations.

The vibe

Pulling up to Peking Pavilion, one might think they’re arriving at a modern art museum — an industrial cement structure with a dramatic white geometric entry way. The bold, red door and statue give way to a gilded hostess stand and two dining rooms that carry the theme throughout. Sleek architectural lines complimented by traditional Chinese tapestries, dramatic, glass lighting fixtures and original furniture from the ’80s outfit the space. A perimeter of windows let light flood in, making the restaurant feel even more open, bright and inviting. There is an instant lived-in, familiar feeling juxtaposed with Peking Pavilion’s elegance. The bar threw off an unexpected energy, with the Olympics and other sports projecting off the screens while regulars settled into their stools. With the charm and diverse dining options offered, Peking Pavilion is a great option for a family or friends outing, fancy enough for a date, yet familiar enough for a casual bite at the bar.

Peking duck at Peking Pavillion in Manalapan Township

The bottom line

The bar at Peking Pavillion in Manalapan Township

It’s very obvious why Peking Pavilion has had a stronghold on locals and visitors alike. From management’s friendly welcome to the high quality and diverse dishes offered, there’s something for everyone here. Although there were some misses, Peking Pavilion is worth a visit, especially for the pork soup dumplings and Peking duck.