I’m a cruise expert, and this adults-only ship is the best for foodies

Chef Mondrekio “Drake” Robertson, who has a following for his book and podcast, looks around the room, smiles, and tells his 24 rookie cooks: “Now you’ve got to do the hardest thing. Nothing.”

We step back from our sizzling pans, resisting the instinct to poke, prod and flip the marinated steak (or giant portobello mushroom for vegetarians) in front of us. The idea, he explains, during our Mexican cookery class, is letting ingredients do the work.

With a tequila-based Paloma cocktail in my hand, it’s surprisingly easy advice to follow, so I take a long sip and wait.

I hadn’t expected to cook my own meal on a cruise ship, but the hands-on £73 lesson, inspired by the flavours of some of the ports we’re visiting, turns out to be one of many highlights on Oceania Cruises’ newest ship, Oceania Allura. The ship, like the week-long sailing from Miami to Mexico, calling at Mexico, Belize and Honduras, is unapologetically foodie.

It’s a hot region in every sense, with online travel agent Iglu Cruise reporting a 113 per cent surge in demand for cruises to Central America between 2024 and 2025, and a 28 per cent increase for the Caribbean.

Food is Oceania’s hallmark; it claims to have the “best cuisine at sea”. Allura, which launched last summer, certainly makes a persuasive case. With 1,200 passengers, it’s comfortably smaller than both the mega-ships dominating the area and the first of the line’s 1,390-guest Sonata Class vessels debuting in 2027.

And since Oceania became an adults-only line this year, the elegant ship feels distinctly grown-up.

It’s the first in the Oceania fleet to have no inside cabins or sea view rooms with windows that don’t open. All 613 cabins come with walk-out verandas, or airy French balconies on which one can look out, if not step out.

All cabins come with sea views and windows that open (Photo: Nick Tortajada/The Adventure DIS/Oceania Allura)

With one chef for every eight guests – the norm on most Oceania ships – and half of the ship’s crew involved in the culinary operations, it’s certainly a tempting choice for food lovers. Oceania has upped the gastronomic ante even more on Allura. As well as outlets such as an all-new creperie, the ship has the first Chef’s Studio.

An offshoot of the culinary centre, the space is used for small-group chef demos and workshops, such as wine pairings and exploring global spices. There’s even a “shots, sips and snacks” class on food photography.

Among the guests, there is a mix of nationalities, including quite a few Britons. There are families with young children and teens, couples, retirees and a sprinkling of solos.

Unlike many lines, where speciality restaurants come with hefty supplements, starting at around £35 and sometimes soaring into three figures, they’re all included in the fare on Allura, except for the private dining room for 10.

Red Ginger has an Asian-inspired menu (Photo: Oceania Allura)

Within the space of a week, I hop from Jacques, a classic French affair serving perfectly executed soufflés and rich buttery sauces, to Red Ginger, where Asian-inspired dishes bring zingy flavours and elegant presentation. Others include Polo Grill, an old-school steakhouse, and Toscana, a gastronomic love letter to Italy.

In total, there are 12 dining venues, an impressive number for a ship of this size. Even the buffet (Terrace Café), often a bit of an afterthought on some ships, is outstanding, with changing destination-themed dishes, including a Caribbean-focused spread that includes tamarind-braised grouper with sweet ginger sauce, spicy jerk chicken, coconut-infused rice and tangy desserts flavoured with mango and pineapple. I eat there several times, taking advantage of the al fresco dining terrace overlooking the back of the ship. My other favourite is Aquamar Kitchen, open for breakfast and lunch, catering to lighter and vegetarian-focused eating – a delicious atonement after places like Jacques.

There’s free seating in the Aquamar Kitchen, buffet and casual dining venues, and you can choose to sit with your group, other guests or at a table for two when making reservations for the speciality restaurants. If these get busy, you will be invited to sit with others, a great way to meet fellow shipmates.

Of course, this is still a Caribbean and Central America cruise, and days ashore provide plenty of opportunity to experience the destinations, whether you wander independently or opt for shore tours starting at £40.

The Mayan ruins of Chacchoben were a highlight on Jeannine’s itinerary (Photo: Wirestock/iStock/Getty)

In Costa Maya, we travel an hour inland to the Mayan ruins of Chacchoben. Aside from a handful of other visitors, we were the only group, making it all the more atmospheric. This extraordinary city, dating to 700AD, was rediscovered by a farmer in 1942 and only around 40 per cent has been excavated, with the rest still buried beneath dense jungle.

I wander along winding paths, where steep pyramid-shaped temples rise from the greenery, and the silence is only broken by spider monkeys swinging through shady mahogany trees.

Belize produces a different kind of magic on a meandering, wildlife-rich small-boat cruise. As we nose slowly along the Belize River, I point to a shape in the water. “If it’s black and floating, it’s probably a croco-log,” says our guide, Saul. He’s right it – it turns out to be a piece of timber. However, as we drift further through the mangroves, we spot the real thing, along with dolphins and manatees. Iguanas bask on the banks.

These experiences are a contrast to my first impressions of Cozumel in Mexico and Roatan in Honduras, where the cruise terminals are dominated by bars and shops. The beaches are beautiful, though, and it’s worth booking an excursion to escape the crowds and see local life.

Back onboard, food once again takes centre stage. I discover ice cream from American brand Humphrey Slocombe, named after a character in the 1970s sitcom Are You Being Served?. I sample its After School Special – vanilla with chocolate, caramel and crushed crisps.

I depart with a broader waistline and a headful of flavours. Chef Robertson was right, sometimes you have to slow down and enjoy the moment, preferably with good food and a decent wine or a tequila-laced cocktail.

Getting there

Virgin Atlantic, British Airways and American Airlines offer direct flights from London to Miami. Returns from around £550.

Booking it

The writer was a guest of Oceania Cruises, which offers the seven-night Tropical Retreats round-trip Miami cruise from £2,309pp, departing 21 December 2026, excluding flights, oceaniacruises.com.