Five essential things to know before you board a Hurtigruten ship

Hurtigruten cruises along Norway’s dramatic fjords, often set against a Northern Lights backdrop

Hurtigruten was born in 1893 when the steamship DS Vesteraalen made its maiden voyage, linking isolated fishing communities along the Norwegian coast. Hurtig means “the fast” and ruten, route. The service was transformative for the region and meant that people, mail and cargo (notably fish) could be transported between the ports of Trondheim and Hammerfest in three days instead of several weeks.

Norwegians have taken the line to their hearts – so much so that one former Hurtigruten captain turned the 1950s-built MS Finnmarken into a museum. Filled with memorabilia, and with the ship’s bridge, galley, engine room and cabins very much intact, Museum Nord is housed in an eye-catching glass structure on Stokmarknes waterfront.

Today, the 10-ship fleet takes locals, cargo and international travellers on the scenic “coastal express” route from Bergen to Kirkenes, a journey of 2,500 nautical miles. Ships carry between 500 and 650 passengers and make round-the-clock calls at 34 ports. The oldest in the fleet, Vesteralen, was built in 1983 and most of the line’s ships were refurbished between 2022 and 2024.

A leader in sustainability, the line has invested around €100 million into environmental fleet upgrades. Hurtigruten was the first to eliminate heavy fuel oils, to dabble in fuel made from dead fish, to ban single-use plastic and to introduce hybrid, battery-powered ships. In late 2025, it completed its first sailing on biodiesel. Currently, four ships are hybrid and a zero-emissions ship is expected in 2030.

1. Where does Hurtigruten sail?

The Coastal Express is a 12-day land-hugging voyage of 2,500 nautical miles calling at 34 ports between Bergen and Kirkenes. Depending on the time of year, the Northern Lights, midnight sun, Unesco-listed Geirangerfjord, Lofoten islands and Arctic Circle crossing are among the highlights. The journey can be split into separate six- and seven-day cruises.

On Northern Lights sailings, Hurtigruten promises that if the lights are a no-show on the full Coastal Express journey, a six- or seven-day cruise is offered for free.

Hurtigruten’s iconic Coastal Express route makes multiple stops in the Lofoten Islands - primeimages/Getty

Those wishing to venture further north can cruise into the High Arctic on The Svalbard Line during the summer. From Bergen, ships sail past Tromso and the North Cape before crossing the Barents Sea to Longyearbyen, the capital of Svalbard, and on to remote Ny-Alesund. In winter The North Cape Line sails from Oslo and Bergen to the North Cape.

There are also land and sail, or rail and sail combinations. A five-day rail and sail itinerary from Oslo includes journeys on the Dovre and Bergen railway lines, short cruises ranging from two to five days, and specific port-to-port bookings. You’ll still see a lot even on a shorter sailing. A three-day Great Weekend Escape from Kirkenes to the Lofoten islands, for example, visits 17 ports.

Excursions include explorations of Sami culture in the country’s northern reaches

In contrast, the all-inclusive Signature Voyages on MS Trollfjorden and, from May 2026, MS Midnatsol, explore one port a day, in depth, with tailored excursions.

2. Who does Hurtigruten appeal to?

Hurtigruten is passionate about showing off the natural splendour of the Norwegian coast and the quirks of its communities, from tiny fishing villages to modern cities. Stunning scenery aside, if you are interested in offbeat museums, wildlife, hiking and other soft-adventure activities, a Hurtigruten cruise is for you.

On board, instead of a casino, shows or formal nights, you’ll find food tastings and talks led by the expedition team. In the winter season, astronomy voyages host additional lectures and experiences focused on astronomy and the Northern Lights.

Most menu ingredients, including the fish, award-winning cheeses, drinks, condiments and organic meats, are sourced from farm- and fjord-to-table suppliers who work along the coastal route. The line has also teamed up with award-winning English wine estate Rathfinny to create its own sparkling wine, Havets Bobler, made from pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay grapes and aged underwater, deep in the Norwegian Sea.

Life on board is relaxed and informal, where passengers usually represent a mix of ages and nationalities. There are no dedicated solo cabins, but Hurtigruten does offer reduced cabin supplements and seasonal offers.

Hikers, sauna-goers and cold-water swimmers will be perfectly suited to Hurtigruten cruises - Kay Fochtmann

A range of dedicated family excursions includes visits to the Atlantic Sea Park aquarium in Alesund, trips to farms and explorations of Viking and Sami life. On cruises of five days or more, those aged under 16 receive discounts of up to 50 per cent on fares and excursions.

The line offers two fare types. “Select” includes Wi-Fi, tea and coffee and a choice of preferred dining times at the main restaurant, whereas “Basic” passengers are pre-allocated a dining slot in the main restaurant and are restricted to one of three cabin categories.

Fares on Signature Cruises include food, some drinks and Wi-Fi. The gym, sauna and hot tubs on all ships are free to use and excursions cost extra. Certain voyages include hotels, transfers and flights from Manchester, London or Newcastle.

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3. Hurtigruten’s fleet

MS Trollfjord (500 passengers)

Locally sourced and natural materials feature prominently in the décor of MS Trollfjord. In terms of dining, all-day restaurant Flora serves buffet breakfasts and lunches and has an à la carte dinner menu, while Brasserie Arran brings a taste of Sami culture with a menu offering dishes such as roasted reindeer with blackcurrant sauce and salmon with truffle seaweed. For Arctic fine dining, head to stylish Røst and enjoy a pre-dinner drink with a view at the 1893 Bar on the two-storey observation deck. The lecture hall occasionally screens films, and there’s also a sauna and fitness room (but no hot tub).

Sails from: Oslo to the North Cape in winter and Bergen to Longyearbyen, Svalbard in summer

MS Trollfjord’s Røst specialises in Arctic fine dining - Espen Mills

MS Midnatsol (500 passengers)

Built in 2003 and currently being refurbished, Midnatsol (named after the midnight sun) will join Hurtigruten’s Signature fleet in May 2026. The revamp will see cabins upgraded and the three restaurants renamed as Flora, Arran and Røst (in line with MS Trollfjord and MS Finnmarken), with new menus for each. Midnatsol will sail on the Svalbard Line.

Sails from: Hamburg to the North Cape in winter and from Bergen to Longyearbyen, Svalbard in summer

MS Finnmarken (530 passengers)

The hybrid-powered MS Finnmarken sails year-round on Signature voyages to the North Cape. Refurbished in 2025 with granite, oak, birch and wool, Finnmarken has a dedicated wellness area complete with gym, treatment rooms and sauna. This is the only ship in Hurtigruten’s fleet to have a swimming pool (it’s also heated). Dining options are identical to those aboard MS Trollfjord.

Sails from: Hamburg to the North Cape

Hurtigruten promises a free six- or seven-day cruise if the Northern Lights are a no-show on the full Coastal Express round-trip - Kay Fochtmann

MS Polarlys (650 passengers)

Norwegian for “Polar light”, Polarlys has a sun deck for soaking it up, three restaurants and a bakery and ice-cream bar. The panoramic Explorer Lounge and Bar is a great spot for forward-facing views and there’s also a sauna and well-equipped fitness room for staying active.

Polarlys has the highest capacity of the ships that sail the Bergen to Kirkenes Coastal Express route. MS Kong Harald, MS Richard With, Nordkapp, MS Nordlys and Nordnorge, all holding 590 passengers, serve the same route. For a unique sailing, the line’s oldest and smallest ship, MS Vesteralen (490 passengers), offers a more authentic, ferry-style experience.

MS Vesteralen eschews opulence and instead offers a comfortable, authentic experience - Espen Mills

Don’t expect fancy décor, picture windows or hot tubs and a gym – do expect good Norwegian food, lectures on wildlife and chats with like-minded travellers in the bar. A refurbishment in 2025 saw 100 cabins refreshed and the addition of several mini-suites and Arctic Superior rooms.

Sails from: Bergen to Kirkenes

4. Access for guests with disabilities

All ships have at least one cabin equipped for travellers using a wheelchair, and many with automatic doors and lift access. Guide dogs are welcome and are usually booked into pet cabins, but upgrades to other cabins are possible. Guide dogs can access all common areas onboard apart from the restaurants, where guests are provided with assistance when dining.

Contact the line for advice on specific itineraries.

5. Loyalty scheme

The 1893 Ambassador Programme is open to all. Members receive tiered loyalty benefits including discounts on cruises, hotels and activities.

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About our expert

Teresa Machan

Teresa was Telegraph Travel’s cruise editor for six years. During that time, she sailed on river, ocean, sailing, and expedition ships to destinations including The Kimberley in Australia, Laos, Indonesia, the Chilean fjords, Baja, and Antarctica. She takes every opportunity possible to get waterborne, whether by kayak, on a ship or in the sea in Brighton.

Teresa Machan, Telegraph Travel’s cruise expert

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