A denim chore jacket is the most versatile item a man can own (just ask Pierce Brosnan)
Temperatures are dipping this week. You’ll need a handy style wingman to have in your back pocket (or hallway cupboard). Step forward the denim chore jacket, which works wonderfully when worn with an overcoat.
Pierce Brosnan may have embraced its rustic charm in this year’s Thursday Murder Club movie, solving all manner of grisly goings-on in the leafy Berkshire countryside, but early iterations of the trusty chore jacket come from across the Channel.
As the industrial revolution gripped France, the country and many workers moved from the countryside to more urban areas to populate the new factories, resulting in a shift in dress codes.
In the Thursday Murder Club, Pierce Brosnan plays a retiree sleuth solving cold cases for fun in a stylish denim jacket - Netflix
And the new legion of proletariat needed clothing that could protect against the heavy duty environments; pieces that were practical, tough and easy to repair. What emerged was the “bleu de travail” (or “work blues”).
Created by Adolphe Lafont in 1844, this was a loose-fitting, unlined blue cotton jacket, finished with a rounded shirt collar, no lapels, buttons up the front, and a selection of top-stitched pockets both inside and out for tools, notebooks and personal effects.
Today it’s become a bona fide fashion garment. Of course, it can still regularly be seen in a work context – see Monty Don’s Old Town iterations – but these days it’s become part of Gen Z uniform.
It’s still worn by those who work, and generally worn while doing work, but today the work tends to be that of creatives, artists and Hollywood actors.
Why you should opt for denim
After years of athleisure ruling the fashion roost post-2000, denim is having a moment once more. According to a recent study by American market research company Grand View Research (coincidentally based in San Francisco, Levi’s hometown), a global denim market which is currently worth $86.7 billion is projected to grow to a whopping $121.5bn by 2030.
And this boom isn’t just being seen in one subset of fashion – it was present across the board at the recent menswear shows via Brunello Cucinelli, Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton, Paul Smith and Dunhill.
“I’ve always seen the chore jacket as one of the most honest garments in menswear – generous in silhouette, utilitarian in purpose, yet elegantly simple,” says Australian menswear designer Christian Kimber.
One of the best-selling items in his two Melbourne stores has become his take on the refined-yet-rugged garment-dyed chore jacket, but this season is the first where he has offered the piece in denim – something his well-heeled customers had started to request.
According to Australian menswear designer Christian Kimber, a denim chore jacket is ‘utilitarian but handsome’ - Christian Kimber
“By offering it in a premium denim we could bring texture, weight and heritage into the piece, while retaining the refined silhouette that defines the label.”
​​”For a city like Melbourne, where there’s a very active fashion and hospitality community, the chore jacket straddles that space beautifully: it’s utilitarian but handsome, less formal than a suit, but more considered than a hoodie.”
This sentiment isn’t only being felt in the Southern Hemisphere – it’s also an item we’re seeing at brands across in the US, on the continent and right here in the UK. From smart brands like Drake’s on Savile Row, to those who deal in streetwear.
“It’s the ultimate layering piece; smart enough for the office, but relaxed enough for the weekend,” says Chris Gove, founder of Percival Menswear.
“Denim wears in beautifully, so it becomes more personal the more you live in it.”
Percival menswear denim trucker and chore jackets are cut from 100 per cent BCI-certified organic cotton - Percival
Stylish fans
The most recent appearance of the denim chore jacket on screen has been via Pierce Brosnan in this year’s Thursday Murder Club. In the Netflix adaption of Richard Osman’s murder mystery novel, Brosnan appears with a full beard, flowing grey hair, and a series of workwear-style get-ups; jeans, check shirts, vintage tees and, crucially, a denim chore jacket.
A stark contrast to his arguably most famous on-screen persona as the highly tailored James Bond, but one that has its own version of cool. The look is easy, approachable – and the chore jacket, imbued with all of its historical connection to ruggedness, is a core part of that.
Meanwhile in real life, fellow actor and the internet’s current boyfriend Jacob Elordi has been spotted out and about frequently in his chore jacket, by the looks of it, he has a selection.
Other wearers include Harry Styles and The Bear actor Jeremy Allen White. “We’ve seen the likes of Chris Evans, Andrew Garfield, and Tom Holland in Percival chore jackets,” says Gove.
“They all wear them in their own way, which is exactly what we like to see.”
Jeremy Allen White wearing double denim in May - The Hapa Blonde
How to wear it
Alongside utility, an all–purpose attitude is a key part of the denim chore jacket’s pitch for a place in your closet. But with so many ways to wear it, what’s the best?
“That’s the beauty of a denim chore jacket: it’s one of the most versatile pieces a man can own.” says Kimber. “I love it over a plain tee and relaxed trousers, but I equally enjoy seeing it over a crisp shirt, tie and smart trousers, where it subverts a more formal look with ease and texture. The key is fit — if the silhouette is balanced you can treat it as you would your blazer.”
“Keep it simple,” agrees Gove. “Layer it over a tee or knit with tailored trousers or chinos. It works just as well with jeans, just mix the washes.
“The goal is effortless versatility, not overthinking it.”
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