The big island resort I’ve visited over a dozen times—and would book again tomorrow

Welcome to Rebooked, Condé Nast Traveler's new column where we share the properties our editors and contributors loved so much, they’ve booked them over and over (and over!) again. Travel journalists have their pick of the litter—so you know these are something special.

Why I first visited:

My time at Mauna Lani dates back well before the property was acquired by Auberge in 2017. My parents honeymooned there in 1994, and felt so connected to the hotel that they decided to make an annual trip back, just the two of them. Every December, they’d head off on this magical trip, leaving my sister and I behind for about a week, and arrive back with hula skirts and coconut tops for us to dance around in. Fast forward a few years to 2005, and my sister and I were officially old enough to join them on this magical trip. I remember being greeted by an abundance of flower leis, a lilikoi drink, and a bounty of warm smiles. Upon first glance of the architectural marvel that is the magnificent indoor-outdoor lobby, my mouth gaped open; on every return visit since, it's done the same.

The author and her sister during their first trip to the property, in 2005

The indoor-outdoor lobby, which always takes the author's breath away

What you can expect from a stay:

Spread across 32 stunning acres on the Kohala Coast, Mauna Lani manages to feel both immensely grand and extremely intimate. Its 300+ rooms and suites (plus five private two-bedroom residences, each with its own pool and butler) were all renovated in the 2017 acquisition to reflect a modern take on Hawaiian living: rich hardwoods of all colors and tones, natural fabrics, private lanais, and ocean views and sounds that lull you to sleep and serve as the perfect alarm clock. The crowd includes a wide variety of travelers—honeymooners, multigenerational families, and a very large handful of long-timers who know the receptionists, pool staff, water sports crew, and even the shuttle drivers like family members. A variety of wildlife can be found sprinkled around the property, namely the Hawaiian green sea turtles, or honu, which lie atop the sand and lava rocks.

A peek at one of the Hawaiian green sea turtles on the property

Much of the property boasts indoor-outdoor living

The author with Mika, the resort pup!

Amazing sticky date pudding at the HāLani restaurant

Palm trees and turquoise waters as far as the eye can see

Dinner at HāLani (this pizza was gluten free, can you believe it?!)

Picnic benches next to the Surf Shack, perfect for an alfresco lunch

Green fields and blue skies for miles

Poke from Poke N Sides at the nearby Hilo Farmer's Market

The dining upgrades are really the cherry on top; when we went back for the first time post-renovation, the meals at two different on-site restaurants left me speechless. I take food very seriously, and a bite from each meal made it onto my top 10 bites of the entire year.

My mornings here are typically spent at the indoor-outdoor breakfast buffet featuring traditional malasadas—a Portuguese fried dough pastry—that can’t be missed. The Canoe House, the resort’s most luxurious restaurant, remains the uncontested jewel of the property: an oceanfront institution with a basalt bar and a menu built around local cuisine with artisanal twists. For more casual dining, I head beachside to the Surf Shack—a newer addition that feels exactly right for lunchtime in a damp bathing suit. Another newcomer, the HāLani restaurant—which highlights coastal Mediterranean cuisine—provided some of the best food on my most recent trip. I still think about the sticky date pudding to this day. This spot is great for those with allergies, too, serving some of the best gluten-free food I've ever had.

Beyond the food, there are 3 pools, 36 holes of golf, a tennis and pickleball club, and a cultural program that highlights the history of the sacred land the resort sits on. A thoughtful kids club is also a big draw for those with families. The renovation also coincided with one of my favorite additions: a resort dog, Mika, who visits once a week to play and paddleboard with guests.

Mika, the resort's dog, at play in the crystal-clear waters

What’s nearby:

Growing up, we rarely ventured outside of the hotel aside from meals. Truly, there’s so much to do on-site that it doesn’t necessitate leaving, but my present-day recommendation would be to venture off-site at least once.

During my most recent visit in 2025, my family and I spent time driving around on the mostly one-lane highway, through the hills and valleys of the six volcanoes that lie rumbling underneath the island. An hour south of the hotel is the main commercial and tourism hub for West Hawaii, Kailua-Kona, which is mostly worth visiting to acquire some famous Kona coffee, but is also renowned for its snorkeling and marine life. This can be its own few-hour trip, but if you’re up for a full day out, do as we did: Drive north through Waimea, known for its vast ranch land, rolling green pastures, and cowboy culture. (Bring a sweatshirt—you’re driving up in elevation, too.) We stopped at the family-run Lean-To Farm coffee shop (dare I say the best coffee of my life) on the way, and then continued on over to Hilo, Kona’s alter-ego on the opposite side of the island. It gets a bad rap for being rainy, and sure, it is damp, but it’s also extremely rich with lush, tropical nature, plus farmers markets and culinary delights that will wow you. We stopped at the Hilo Farmer’s Market with its variety of bright-colored fruits and passionfruit (known as lilikoi to locals), then inhaled fresh poke from Poke N Sides. Right next door, we cooled off at Kula Shave Ice.

Shave ice from Kula Shave Ice at the Hilo Farmer's Market

On the loop back around to the hotel, we stopped by the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut center, where you can see the vastness of their macadamia nut trees and get some merch (the perfect souvenir for loved ones, we’ve learned over the years). Lastly, we stopped by the recently extra-famous Kīlauea—it’s a spectacle to see and has been much more active than usual in the past few years. If you get lucky with timing, you might even see it erupt.

Why I keep coming back:

It’s hard to put into words what this hotel in the middle of the Pacific Ocean means to me. My family used to vacation here for 10 days at a time every single winter. Any holiday or long weekend that pops up on the calendar has me yearning to return. I grew up here. I spent time with my late father here, and we formed meaningful memories that are inherently attached to the place. I finally brought my husband here for the first time last year and showed him my old stomping grounds.

The author making memories on the water with her sister and her late father

Beyond my own family's connection here, the concept of ʻohana—a family-rooted concept that thrives on nurturing community and leaving no one alone—is embedded in Hawaiian culture, and in Mauna Lani's. This is not a transplant of a high-end hotel in the middle of nowhere. It’s run by folks who were raised on the island’s rich soil, including young people who grew up running around like myself and are now taking over their parents’ roles, forging their own connections with guests.

The food? Exquisite. The pools, oceans, views, and sunsets? Next-level. The service will blow your socks off. But what I come back for isn't an amenity; it’s the intangible essence of a property that’s retained its core identity after a huge renovation. And though the price tag has gone up as a result, I can’t put a price on what this place means to me. You better believe I’ll be back again soon.