White jeans are a nightmare to buy. Here are the rules to follow
There is nothing quite like the freshness that white jeans can bring to an outfit. They look polished – smarter than blue jeans – and suggest that you have a lifestyle luxurious enough that you don’t have to get your hands (or jeans) dirty. But, of course, if you do, they’re machine-washable. It’s no wonder they were spotted on all the front rows during the recent run of fashion weeks.
The problem is that they are not a straightforward thing to buy. It’s not as easy as finding your favourite blue jeans in a lighter colourway, as Chloë Culpin, founder of Pin Denim, attests.
“You can try the same style and sizing in white and it will look ‘off’ or feel ‘too small’, so always size up one or two sizes – or more – in white,” she advises. “Ensure the denim is soft so it has some drape, but thick enough it’s not showing underwear or any lines,” says Culpin, who sources and fits high-quality vintage jeans.
Even if you’re fond of a fitted cut in blue or grey denim, getting white right requires a more relaxed fit. “A fitted white jean, especially with stretch, can feel a little dated. Think Liz Hurley in the early 2000s vibes,” Culpin warns.
White jeans can be just as comfortable to wear as regular denim, but they suggest a more luxurious lifestyle - TheStewartofNY/GC Images
Your white jeans don’t have to be optic white either, she adds: “Off-white, ecru or sandy washes are a nice way to visually achieve the same look.” She finds vintage Levi’s 501s and 90s straight-leg Calvin Klein jeans to be her best sellers in this palette.
Once you have your white jeans, there’s the challenge of styling them. At Wiggy Kit, the ecru Gaucho jeans are a summer staple. “The best thing about a white or light denim jean is that it is the perfect match for any colour or print,” says founder Wiggy Hindmarch. “My personal preference is for a washed-out vintage denim or chambray shirt with the sleeves rolled up or a white-on-white look. I think that looks so chic. You have to pair white jeans with tan [accessories] in my opinion.”
In California, where denim brand Mother is based, it’s white jeans weather all year round. “White denim with neutrals is kind of our go-to – it’s simple, but it always looks good,” says Lela Becker, president and co-founder. “For fits, we’re loving a straight leg, or something more exaggerated like the [barrel leg] Half-Pipe. And then the [wide-leg] Lemon Twist – we’re obsessed.”
Beyond that, the usual denim rules apply. Think about which shoes you will be wearing most often with your jeans, for instance, and get them hemmed to the appropriate length. A full-length straight-leg style will make your legs look longer and leaner. Given that the weather is warming, you may prefer a cropped pair, to show a flash of ankle and a cute shoe.
The good news is that once you have a great pair of jeans, a decent outfit comes together with very little effort. Summer dressing sorted.
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Three ways to wear white jeans
Wide leg
Balance a wide-leg silhouette with a glimpse of the waist. The best way to achieve this is with a French tuck. A waisted cardigan or jacket would also work well, and would make your jeans look more formal. Add some platforms or wedges for a bit of leg-lengthening height.
Straight leg
A classic straight leg will never fail you – just keep the fit on the looser side, and avoid stretch denim as that “cling” can look dated, as Culpin notes above. Keep the whole silhouette easy with a mannish jumper or an untucked shirt for an elegant, androgynous feel.
Barrel leg
Once considered divisive, the barrel leg is now the style high-street retailers can’t keep in stock. The cinched waist and slight taper at the ankle is actually rather flattering, particularly when cropped, to show off a bare ankle or statement sock. As with the wide-leg, show a little waist definition with a tuck or boxy tee.
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