I’ve stayed in every top five-star hotel in London – these are the best and worst

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

Ornate Claridge’s is famed for its decadent afternoon tea - Maybourne

They’re the top tier of British hospitality, having hosted the rich and famous for centuries. But London’s five-star hotels are under threat. Amid rising operating costs, staffing challenges and, in many cases, rapidly ageing listed architecture, these bastions of luxury can’t rest on their laurels, especially when their clientele is increasingly discerning.

“The iconic Savoy hotel was a TOTAL MESS!”, declared travel influencer Hannah Ricketts to 418,000 subscribers in her YouTube review earlier this year, and she’s not the only influencer turning heads with hotel take-downs.

So have London’s five-stars really fallen from grace?

As a Telegraph hotel reviewer of more than a decade, I’m an accomplished nit-picker and my priority is honest critiques, not clicks.

So, over the course of a highly indulgent month, I stayed at 16 of London’s finest five-stars (note that not all of them wanted to take part): these are the ones that genuinely wowed me and the ones that left something to be desired.

Skip to:

  • The best of the best
  • Still worth the splurge
  • Great – but some big niggles
  • Should do better

The best of the best

The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge

Star quality: Homely opulence

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Library Bar in the Lanesborough hotel at Hyde Park Corner - Dominic James

From the butler offering to unpack your bags to the lustrous canopy over your king-size bed, these rooms are designed to impress. The Lanesborough feels warm and convivial: Lilibet, the resident cat, will likely be snoozing in the Withdrawing Room, while Moët bottles pop in the Library Bar. Stately oil paintings adorn the walls, while the spa (with sauna, whirlpool and steam room) was my favourite of the lot.

I still had a couple of minor niggles: the room’s air-conditioning was weak, and instead of a simple bedside light switch there was a faffy tablet. Corridors can be warren-like, but the eclectic décor helps with navigation: to find my room, I had to turn right at two ceramic cockatoos. This is the only hotel offering butler service with its entry-level rooms, which I loved.

Doubles from £955, B&B.

Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair

Star quality: Quiet luxury

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Kipling Suite at Brown’s Hotel, designed by Olga Polizzi - Hotel Photography

King Charles III, Agatha Christie, Rudyard Kipling… you’re in illustrious company when you stay at London’s oldest hotel, now part of Rocco Forte. This was my third visit and it was as homely as always: many of the staff have been here for eons, while Olga Polizzi’s penchant for vibrant floral wallpapers and lustrous fabrics brings a fresh, playful exuberance.

The hotel doesn’t have the same wow factor on arrival as, say, the Savoy or the Dorchester, but you can’t deny the magic of its near 200-year history. It continues to draw a well-connected, sophisticated crowd, ideal for ear-wigging over breakfast at Charlie’s. Entry-level rooms are large and well appointed, though their “courtyard” views are just walls. Unfortunately, there is no steam room or sauna.

Doubles from £829, B&B.

The Dorchester, Hyde Park

Star quality: Pure razzmatazz

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Artists’ Bar at The Dorchester - The Dorchester

The Dorchester’s stone facade looks staid from the outside, but it’s brimming with glitz and glamour inside. The eclectic artworks, the lobby’s gleaming gold leaf and black marble, the Promenade restaurant’s dazzling mirror-covered piano and plump banquettes (my favourite spot for people-watching at breakfast): it’s all gorgeous.

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

Hazel notes The Dorchester lobby’s gleaming gold leaf and black marble design

My room was so huge and beautifully appointed that I thought I’d been upgraded, but no, it was a humble entry level, complete with Diptyque toiletries and a giant bathtub. It’s expensive, but far from the priciest on this list. Guests have free access to the fabulous pool, sauna and steam room across the road at 45 Park Lane.

Doubles from £960, B&B.

Still worth the splurge

The Goring, Belgravia

Star quality: Character and cocktails

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Goring promises the feel of an English country retreat in striking distance of Buckingham Palace - Nick Rochowski Photography

This is London’s only family-owned five star – and it shows. While there’s no shortage of buffed marble and plush velvet nooks in the bar, the hotel’s charm lies in its whimsical décor, from the woolly sheep in front of the fireplace to the lobby’s playful animal-themed mural.

I was disappointed that the Goring still hasn’t embraced refillable toiletries. This is also the only property on the list with no spa facilities – but then that’s not really what you come here for. Similarly, rooms don’t have minibars. But the old-school British dining is fantastic (if you’re celebrating, you might be invited into the kitchen for a glass of bubbly) and this is one of London’s very few hotels to have its own – gigantic – garden.

Doubles from £800, room only.

The Connaught, Mayfair

Star quality: The little touches

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Connaught is located on Mount Street, in the heart of Mayfair - Kensington Leverne

Owing to the Connaught’s listed Victorian architecture, my entry-level room felt rather small, especially when compared to other veterans such as the Dorchester and Mandarin Oriental. But lavish little touches elevate the experience, such as the generous tub of eucalyptus bath salts, large Surrenne toiletries that aren’t fixed to the wall, the Aman-branded face mask beside the bed and the welcome drink sent to your room after check-in.

Hands down, the best shower of these hotels: strong and hot enough to blast away any traces of last night’s cocktails in the quirky Red Room bar. Dinner at the Grill was rather prosaic; I should have booked the hotel’s three Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze instead.

Doubles from £930, B&B.

Claridge’s, Mayfair

Star quality: Art deco glamour

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Foyer’s decadent afternoon tea is a staple of Claridge’s offerings

The only hotel that yielded celebrity sightings when I visited: an actor sipping bubbly in Le Fumoir and a popstar scoffing pizza just a few tables away. But there’s much more to draw you to this classic of the art deco genre (also part of the Maybourne group, along with the Connaught above), from the Foyer’s decadent afternoon tea to 170-odd years of royal history.

The staff are so spirited: the Reading Room’s sommelier helped me with my sudoku at dinner and the jazz pianist at Claridge’s Restaurant made a regular Monday afternoon feel celebratory. The spa was added in 2022, but its pool and gym are eclipsed by the superior offerings at Raffles and the Corinthia (see below). I found the entry-level rooms rather bland – where’s the art?

Doubles from £930, B&B.

The Peninsula London, Hyde Park

Star quality: Modern opulence

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Peninsula has large rooms, but our critic was perplexed by the turndown service - Will Pryce

Purpose-built in 2017, the Peninsula isn’t constrained by listed architecture, so has the biggest entry-level rooms of all these hotels, featuring gigantic marble bathrooms, walk-in wardrobes and plenty of natural light. Thank goodness, given the extortionate price. Of course, this isn’t a grande dame, so if you’re after tangible heritage you should look elsewhere.

Don’t miss Brooklands Bar, which is full of aviation and motor-racing memorabilia, such as the nose of a Concorde. The house cars, including a Bentley, will ferry you around for free within a two-mile radius, and the vast spa is Dubai-quality, offering tech-forward treatments such as micro-current facials and pressotherapy. Weirdly, turndown only serviced half of the bed: one set of slippers, one water bottle, and the teas weren’t replenished.

Doubles from £1,300, B&B.

Great – but some big niggles

The Beaumont, Mayfair

Star quality: “Affordable” luxury

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Beaumont in Mayfair has just 101 rooms - Anthony Weller

At last, a sensible price. The Beaumont feels intimate (just 101 rooms) and you’ll enjoy its eclectic art deco paraphernalia and sultry Le Magritte bar. It has a spa, though it’s tiny. Service was a let-down: I requested a pregnancy pillow but it never arrived, and turndown was simply a spruce-up, with no slippers laid out or goodies on the pillow.

Entry-level rooms are surprisingly spacious, with old-style vanity units though no bathtubs. Breakfast is a mix of buffet and à la carte; the former is very modest (bordering on meagre), but the latter is generous, including porridge swirled with honey from the hotel’s own hives.

Doubles from £525, B&B.

Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall

Star quality: Heritage and pool

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

Our writer believes the pool at The Old War Office may be the finest in London - John Athimaritis

I can’t forgive Raffles its exorbitant rates. £990 for such small, featureless rooms is ludicrous. No bathtubs, no views and bland ivory décor: a real let-down. Happily, the rest of the hotel is far richer. The OWO – Old War Office – teems with so many original features that just strolling the extra-wide corridors (designed to accommodate government messengers’ bikes) is a treat.

You’ll love the Cinderella-style stone staircase and the balcony from which Churchill addressed his staff: the hotel’s tours (available free to guests only; non-residents have to pay £155 as part of a package with afternoon tea) are packed with stories.

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

Hazel loves the the Cinderella-style stone staircase in Raffles London

More marvels await in the spa, whose 20-metre pool may be the finest in London. At breakfast, my soya latte was curdled; “that’s just what happens”, the waitress shrugged.

Doubles from £990, B&B.

Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge

Star quality: Window wow-factor

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

Binoculars are provided in the suites at the Shangri-La the Shard - VRX Studios

Everything, and rightfully so, revolves around the view here. From the Thames and the Tower of London to Surrey and Sussex in the distance, it’s all yours to admire, whether from your bed (binoculars are provided), over cocktails at Gǒng or à la carte breakfast. The rooms’ décor is bland and wood-dominated, but all entry-level accommodations have stellar views.

The hotel occupies floors 34 to 52 and I loved the panoramic pool and sauna on the 52nd: free to use but booking is essential, so never crowded. Unnervingly, the building’s glass facade means you can occasionally see a little into other bedrooms. Also, why such teeny-tiny bath towels?

Doubles from £650, B&B.

Rosewood London, Holborn

Star quality: Arty idyll

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

Rosewood London is the biggest five-star hotel in central London - Durston Saylor

I couldn’t squeeze in the “breakfast pie” – a full English in pastry – but the set breakfast menus here (continental, wellness, traditional and Chinese) are good quality and the tartan-trousered staff don’t mind if you mix and match dishes. I observed lovely attention to detail (“Would you prefer your eggs on your toast, or should I serve it in a toast rack?”) and all guests being greeted by name.

Also bravo to Scarfes Bar for its classy cocktails and fireside armchairs. The hotel is generally rather dark and I struggled to do my makeup in my room’s low lighting. Also, yikes, the mugs were dirty. I did enjoy the lobby’s quirky modern art collection and the grand courtyard: an idyll just off hectic High Holborn.

Doubles from £800, B&B.

Should do better

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge

Star quality: Breakfast with a view

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The rooms at the Mandarin Oriental are filled with Diptyque toiletries - George Apostolidis

More homely than the Peninsula, more plush than the Langham, and characterful too, all brooding dark marble and gigantic flower displays, with nary a beige moment. In the spa, I had one of the best massages I’ve ever had in London, while the entry-level rooms are spacious and come with Diptyque toiletries and the biggest, fluffiest bath sheets I encountered.

But the experience was marred by a harrowing moment: I requested a pregnancy pillow only for it to arrive soiled with what I can only assume were previous guests’ bogies. Bleugh! Breakfast, both buffet and à la carte, can be served in the garden beside Hyde Park, extra special when the cavalry trots past.

Doubles from £900, B&B.

The Langham, Marylebone

Star quality: Service, perhaps?

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The Langham is located at the top of Regent Street

It started so well, with an impeccable welcome: a dapper army of doormen stands poised beneath the purple columns and abundant bouquets of the magnificent lobby, ready to spirit away your suitcases. I was also impressed when the check-in staff offered to send a pregnancy pillow to the room, a nice touch (and it was clean: take note Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park!)

But the accommodation felt tired and characterless to me, with beige décor, scuffed paintwork and chipped furniture. The air-conditioning in my room was broken, a drinks order was forgotten and I found a hair in the bed.

Doubles from £770, B&B.

Corinthia London, Whitehall

Star quality: Breakfast and spa

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The afternoon tea dessert trolley at the Corinthia - Charlie Sawyer

More hairs! I spotted several in the bathroom and two in the bed, which stole the joy of checking into this otherwise impressive hotel. Downstairs though, a chandelier of 1,001 crystal Baccarat baubles twinkles over afternoon tea and guests clink flutes in the courtyard Garden restaurant.

The spa’s “thermal suite” is glorious, with a sunken sauna and relaxation area illuminated by firelight, plus a serene pool, steam room and salt room. Northall Bar is a beauty too, with its potent cocktails and sexily lit central bar. Note that the hotel’s Executive rooms are classed as entry level: there are cheaper ones, but they’re reserved for corporate bookings.

Doubles from £1,000, B&B.

The Savoy, Strand

Star quality: Novelty factor

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

A light-filled, luxurious Superior Queen room at the Savoy - Will Pryce

You can’t deny the Savoy’s glamour: everyone from Humphrey Bogart to Barbra Streisand has partied here and the Gallery’s brasserie dishes are superb (though dinner service was rather slow and haphazard). But the accommodation is a tale of two halves: its Edwardian wing is undergoing extensive renovations, with fresh grey paintwork, elegant dance-inspired artworks and white marble bathrooms with clawfoot tubs. Fabulous.

However, its art deco wing, where almost all of the entry-level Queen Superior rooms are located, is yet to be transformed; work starts in early 2026. Here, I found the décor a drab ode to magnolia: the carpets, curtains, walls and soft furnishings are endlessly beige, with dark oak furniture. Very disappointing.

Doubles from £800, B&B.

Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

Star quality: The gorgeous Grill

The best of the best, The Lanesborough, Knightsbridge, Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair, The Dorchester, Hyde Park, Still worth the splurge, The Goring, Belgravia, The Connaught, Mayfair, Claridge’s, Mayfair, The Peninsula London, Hyde Park, Great – but some big niggles, The Beaumont, Mayfair, Raffles London at the OWO, Whitehall, Shangri-La the Shard, London Bridge, Rosewood London, Holborn, Should do better, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Knightsbridge, The Langham, Marylebone, Corinthia London, Whitehall, The Savoy, Strand, Hotel Café Royal, Piccadilly

The opulent Café Royal Grill offers all-day dining - James McDonald

The hotel is named after Café Royal Grill, which since 1865 has wowed diners – including Oscar Wilde and Princess Diana – with its lavish gold décor and Italianesque ceiling murals. “It’s like a mini Sistine Chapel”, my companion murmured, gazing skywards. The Delmonico steak is meltingly tender, the service superb. But the rest of the hotel left me cold.

My accommodation floor reeked of marijuana: staff were aware of the issue and told me it had been going on for “two or three days”. While there are flashes of original features and some dazzling new additions – such as the lobby’s double-height Murano glass chandelier – the majority of interiors are clad in endless oak wood, which felt boring at best and oppressive at worst.

Doubles from £750, B&B.

Hazel Plush was a guest of all the hotels featured above.

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