A fashion editor’s guide to looking expensive (without spending a fortune)
When Lady Carole Bamford of Daylesford, arguably the most upmarket general stores in the land, notes that even her customers are reining in their spending, you know that the gilded era of the Bezos/Sanchez/Kardashian billionaire is now so uncool as to be deep-frozen (no matter how many Vogue covers they negotiate).
This is categorically not about indiscriminate sweeps of ultra-fast fashion online marketplaces Temu and Shein. Rather, it’s a manifesto for reclaiming your power as a consumer and shopping responsibly.
Dust off your accumulated knowledge of quality and browse like it’s the 1950s and you’re a French housewife scouring her local farmer’s market for the best produce. I’m often blown away by the stylish women I meet whose Phoebe Philo outfit turns out to have come from Zara. It’s almost always because they’ve gone for proportions and colours that suit them (flattering trumps fashionable, but it’s perfectly possible to be both).
Use your senses to feel fabrics, smell skins (leather should smell of leather, not plastic coating). Harness your investigative skills to check the endless green and luxury claims of various brands. Gird your loins for forensic trying-on-before-you-buy sessions. When money’s tight, prioritising quality over quantity and developing a signature style can elevate your look without a luxury price tag.
Don’t just accept purchases that turn out to be mediocre. Return them. It requires effort, but wise shopping is an art, not a reflexive scratch for a sudden itch.
Money has never been a guarantee of class. These practical, budget-conscious tips – and the key VFM (value for money) wardrobe items below – are.
Build around key wardrobe staples
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'Great outfits start with fundamentals: a well-fitting blazer, a crisp white shirt, a pair of flattering trousers and versatile shoes. These pieces act like a uniform, helping you mix and match effortlessly. You don’t need many; buy fewer, better-made basics that fit you well.
Make friends with vintage. A beautiful men’s shirt (almost always better quality than women’s) on Vinted costs about the same as fast fashion, or less.
Tip: Have at least one polished outfit you always keep clean and ready – whether for a casual meeting, date or work presentation.
Maximise the power of neutrals
A high percentage of wool, a generous cut and a rich chocolate shade make this a classy classic. The shawl collar adds some drama and is useful in a storm
Neutral colours – like navy, camel, cream, buttermilk, khaki, chocolate and black – look instantly more refined than brights. You could have all seven in your wardrobe and they’d all mix well – the ideal – meaning fewer pieces go further and your wardrobe feels cohesive. This is particularly true of bags. Primary colours tend to emphasise shortcomings.
Tip: To prevent neutrals looking boring and flat, introduce bright statements strategically – a punchy knitted red triangle scarf; an emerald green resin earring; a T-shirt with a colourful neckline that peeps out under your neutral knit. Explore the plethora of cosy and/or sophisticated textures on the high street.
Resist Shein-coded ‘luxury’
An absence of logos or metal means all the outlay went on the soft, squishy leather and pliable construction. This is a workhorse of a bag that looks and feels much more expensive than it is
Good lighting can make even tat look decent. Ultra-cheap thin cashmere that pills instantly, moc croc that flakes or looks too shiny and plasticky, and brash logos for “masstige” labels are all examples of Shein coding. Far wiser to spend the money on less “luxe” materials.
For the same money as “bargain” cashmere – under £60 – you could buy an excellent lambswool equivalent (they’re not the itchy things of yore). Merino? The unsung hero of natural fibres. If you’re hooked on the feel of cashmere, seek out labels that promise “a hint of”. A little bit of synthetic isn’t necessarily terrible. It can make delicate yarn more robust and more likely to survive a machine wash intact. A ten per cent cashmere injection can deliver a world of softness without the disadvantages of cashmere. Boden, Cos and Uniqlo are all excellent for natural yarns, although Uniqlo likes to slip in plenty of synthetics too. M&S is better for merino and wool than cashmere.
Tip: Swap out the flash-tastic moc croc for soft leather. The lack of hardware and logos on this Radley tote isn’t just refined; it means all the production costs have gone into the soft, squishy leather.
If you’re hankering for moc croc – and sometimes it’s the finishing garnish – then Stow of London does a terrific one, and ditch logos altogether. Unless their intrinsic design is an exemplar of graphic genius in itself (as arguably the Gucci and Chanel initials are, or Loewe’s curlicue flourish), they’re adding nothing to your aura.
Go for classic, not boring
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'I love a kitten heel court shoe as much as Miuccia Prada. Ankle boots? Essential. The trick when buying classic shoes though is that you must keep them current. An indented heel, a higher last, or an almond toe could ensure they don’t look dull or age you…details are everything.
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'The same goes for knits. Necklines determine whether a knit looks basic or interesting. Scarf attachments are flattering, versatile and sophisticated. The buttermilk colour is a lovely warm neutral alternative to white that makes brown, charcoal and black look more interesting.
Tip: Make label reading a habit before you finally seal the deal. The most understated colour palette is only as good as its fabric. Retailers know how to make synthetics look and feel appealing on a shelf. Don’t fall for it.
Cut and fit over trends
This one feels and looks expensive. I’ve worn mine on repeat since September. No sign of wear and tear so far, but plenty of compliments
The best quality materials in the world will do nothing for you if they’ve been squandered on bad design or mediocre tailoring. Conversely, some high street brands, such as Zara, often excel at contemporary silhouettes and tailoring that get the best out of the fabrics they’re working with. Hush, Cos, Arket and Massimo Dutti are also excellent. Hobbs, though it can be staid, is also great at wool coats and jackets. Again, try before you buy, as a shape that works on one person, or a model, isn’t automatically right for you.
Tip: Focus on what suits your body rather than trends. It’s astonishing how celebrities, with everything at their fingertips, forget this, as well as hiring stylists who seem clueless about what colours suit them. Check out @style_synergy_studio for some enlightening before-and-afters.
Handing over your money isn’t the end of the process
Get into the habit of taking items that need minor readjustments to a tailor. For £30 or less, you can get a £1m return effect. Replace cheap buttons. eBay is a treasure trove.
Be realistic about what can be pimped post-purchase. Improving a jacket that doesn’t fit anywhere or have seams in the right place is unrealistic. Look after your high street buys as if they were couture.
Tip: Steaming improves the look of everything and also acts as a cleanser, which means fewer trips to the dry cleaner (thesteamery.com has excellent handheld and standing ones). Add some of Lady Bamford’s natural ironing spray to minimise creases and a chore becomes almost as good as a spa treatment. Polish shoes with proper creams. Dry leather = cracked.
More tips
Grannies are setting the fashion agenda. Here's how to steal their style
Good basics are your secret power
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'The perfect T-shirt with sleeves and a neckline that hits you at the right spots, fresh-looking socks, toning tights, seed pearls (rather than synthetic), durable, well-cut denim – none of these need be expensive. Look for good design and intelligent, flattering proportions, and layer them with panache. Anything that fits and works on you colour-wise will have far more overall impact than an expensive piece of nonsense.
Tip: If you need help deciphering what’s right for your shape, build and proportions, Think Shape could be the most fun, money- and time-saving app you buy. Masterminded by personal stylist Anna Berkeley, its customisable features work out the best shapes for you and then direct you to the appropriate merchandise. Fashion flair meets practical styling expertise.
Don’t just wear it, style it
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'There are legions of influencers dying to share their tips and tricks for making the banal look more “intentional” and interesting. From the familiar French tuck, to choosing the right bag for your outfit, or buttoning two pieces of knitwear together for that Japanese-designer look, the best are transformative. A chunky metal bangle worn over your jumper sleeve rather than under… so simple.
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'Think about yourself in 360 degrees. You may not see the back of your head, but everyone else does. A hairdo that accentuates the curve of your skull, or elongates your neck, is golden (this is why some women tuck their long hair into a high neckline). The right, slim belt instantly elevates. A top-quality belt (don’t bother with a designer one, it will go out of style) is probably one of the best outfit elevators you can buy.
Tip: There’s zero shame in borrowing styling habits from stylish figures you trust, so long as they don’t tip into slavish copying.
Curate, don’t consume
Fashionable cut, excellent quality, design kudos from JW Anderson - Uniqlo
Keep up to speed with the names delivering fashion flair, quality and VFM. For inexpensive denim with kudos, look no further than Uniqlo’s JW Anderson collaborations.
I also rate: Arket, Cos, Massimo Dutti, Boden knitwear (especially when deals are on), Zara, the Jigsaw sale, Uniqlo cashmere and linen and, if you have the time and energy, occasionally TK Maxx. Hobbs is sometimes excellent for au courant wool jackets and coats.
The best of the designer high-street collaborations and elevated “Studio” or “Lab” ranges offer amazing fashion-literate touches with high quality. I love: H&M Studio, Uniqlo’s C Collection by Clare Waight Keller, Zara’s Srpls (masterminded by super stylist Karl Templar) and anything with input from the Collagerie team (most notably Lucinda Chambers, former Fashion Director at British Vogue).
Tip: Resist impulse buys. Before purchasing, ask: Do I already have something similar? Will I wear this multiple times? Instead of constantly adding, refine and edit what you own.
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