This remote Oregon desert is a must-do for your 2026 travel bucket list

Alvord Hot Springs offers lodging in converted military bunkers on the edge of the Alvord Desert. Stargazing on clear nights offers incredible views.

The Alvord Desert has been on my Oregon bucket list for the past several years. As a former desert dweller, I have an affinity for open, arid landscapes and heat.

Shortly after moving to Oregon, I was surprised to hear that this state known for its lush forests and endless rain had its own remote, barren landscape, fit with hot springs and a dry lakebed to boot.

The catch? It’s in southeastern Oregon, the opposite corner of the state from me and about a seven-hour drive from Portland.

There was also a time element to getting there: only a few months of the year offer conditions dry enough to drive on and explore the dry lakebed playa, a key attraction. In the winter, your car would get stuck in the wet playa. In the dead of summer, you risk extreme heat.

This September, I made the trek to the Alvord Desert. Now it ranks as one of my favorite trips in Oregon.

Winter is a great time to plan ahead for your Northwest adventures. While you can visit any time of the year, (especially for hot springs in the winter) the best time to visit the Alvord Desert and explore the lakebed is usually July to October. Here’s why I love it and what you can do there.

A pronghorn walks through farm land in Southeastern Oregon on Sept. 17, 2025, near Fields, Oregon.

Stay at or visit Alvord Hot Springs

Visiting Alvord Hot Springs is nonnegotiable. This family-owned destination is near the end of a long, gravel road, and my car was completely covered in a layer of dust upon arrival.

Alvord Hot Springs is open to both day-use and overnight visitors. Overnight guests can use the hot springs at all hours and have the choice of camping in designated spots or spending the night in a converted military bunker with multiple bed arrangements. Just make sure to bring your own bedding.

The Alvord Desert is in the far southeastern corner of Oregon and is about a seven-hour drive from Portland. In the dry summer months, cars can drive on the playa.

Each bunker has its own fire ring and picnic table and is just a stone’s throw from the soaking pools.

I stayed in the bunker and paid $90, after a discount for using cash.

The soaking pools here are nothing fancy, but they are clean, the temperature is adjustable and the views from the tubs are incredible. In one direction, you can gaze at Steens Mountain and maybe catch a glimpse of a big horn sheep. Pivot the other way, and stare into the seemingly endless desert landscape.

Alvord Hot Springs offers lodging in converted military bunkers on the edge of the Alvord Desert.

Pro tip: Wake up at sunrise and take a dip. The air is chilly, the sky is a sherbet gradient and the pools are less crowded.

Drive on the playa

This dry cracked lake bed was once covered in a 200-foot deep lake tens of thousands of years ago. Today it is a sight for the eyes. In the summer, you can drive on to the playa without the risk of your car getting stuck. Alvord Hot Springs guests receive special access to a road leading to the playa, just a short drive from the property.

The space seems unending. It stretches six miles long and 11 miles wide. Thrill seekers put pedal to the metal and push their vehicles to high speeds (not this grandma stuck in a 30-year-old body).

Alvord Hot Springs offers soaking and lodging on the edge of the Alvord Desert playa.

You can even camp on the playa. Just remember, bring everything you need; this area is very remote and the nearest sundry shop aside from the Alvord Hot Spring front office is a long drive away.

Alvord Hot Springs offers soaking and lodging on the edge of the Alvord Desert playa.

Pro-tip: Ditch the shoes and spread your toes into the playa as you look toward Steens Mountain. I’m told you’ll experience a spiritual and energetic shift, according to the cattle-rancher working the front office of Alvord Hot Springs.

Observe the wildlife

Several hours into this drive to the Alvord Desert you’ll start to notice you aren’t in Portland anymore. Wildlife signs warn of large cattle. If you miss those, you surely won’t miss the cattle roaming directly in front of your car in the roadway.

Cattle farms are plentiful in the area, so this will be a regular occurrence. As will be coyote sightings, with some of the animals running parallel to your car or darting into the tall grass that lines the roads.

A few miles outside Alvord Hot Springs, I saw a creature that from a distance seemed to resemble a deer, but it had unusual horns. And it wasn’t an elk. I pulled over quickly and grabbed my long lens to snap a photo. I used my phone to help me identify the creature as a pronghorn antelope.

Pronghorn antelope look like they could only possibly belong in the Lion King.

Fun fact: Pronghorn antelope can reach a running speed of nearly 60 miles an hour.

Take in the stars

Simply put, the stars here will dazzle you. This region is known for its dark skies and is part of the planned expansion of Oregon’s Dark Sky Sanctuary.

Whether you are out on the playa stargazing or just outside your military bunker lodging at the hot springs, it’s easy to spot the Milky Way here and the perfect spot to see a meteor shower.

For star photography, bring your DSLR, tripod and tinker with long exposure to find your best shot.

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